Green Regency Daydress; Progress!

It is hard to be sure when one will actually start a project, if you are like me. I tend to spend much more time researching, planning and imagining the finished product than I do actually cutting and fitting and sewing the pieces. However, inspiration struck yesterday so I cut out and started sewing the bodice of my new regency dress.

I was going to make a basic drawstring Elegant Lady's Closet dress but decided that I already have three of those and it would be too redundant to make another. It is a lovely pattern, but I wanted to try something new. Something different. Something that could still be adjustable for weight loss but look right.

I found an ideal style in Costume in Detail. I really love this design! It seems almost fan-frontish (which I have been really loving lately) and has a small crossover detail at the center front, which I also love. The back closes with a button at the neck and a drawstring at the waist. The gathers make it perfect for a hide-the-figure weight loss style and will be ideal with a drawstring waist.

I used my basic 1860's bodice as a starting point and made a mock up. I chopped off the dropped arms and made the armhole fit around the actual shoulder. I shortened the bodice to exactly the bottom of the bosom. I wanted to make this dress to wear with modern undies (a sportsbra) but it just looked really bad, so I ended up fitting the bodice over my 1790's transitional stays I made last year. I have not worn those stays since, probably, I made them but to my surprise they fit me even better than they did last year and gave just the right shape and "lift" to the bust. I am very happy with how it looks! I cut a diaganol line from the neckline at the shoulder to the center front bottom edge of the bodice to make the right neckline shape. I cut the lining from this. For the bodice fronts, I slashed and spread the lining pattern to give width to it. Then it was gathered down at the shoulders and at the "waist" to match the lining. Voila!

So far I have made the bodice and sleeves and am now meditating on the skirt. I want it pretty flat in front (to avoid looking pregnant) but so far I have not cut it out.

The bodice fits *almost* exactly around my underbust. It is a teensy bit big and the waistline drawstring will snug it up to a perfect fit. At least, that is the plan. :)

Maybe I will get out the straw hat brim I've been hoarding and make a bonnet to go with this.

Love,
Sarah

A Medieval 12th Night

Despite a stomach bug which, all last week, ran its course through each member of our little family, we all were over it by Saturday evening and were able to go to the 12th Night party held for our SCA barony. It was a  lot of fun; in fact, I can't remember when I've had such a good time!

I can't help comparing SCA events to Civil War events. I honestly can't help it. Civil War reenacting has been a aprt of my life since I was around twelve years old. The past few years I've been disillusioned with reenacting, gaining a bit of excitement for it from time to time but mostly oh, so tired of it. The SCA is very different and in many ways  I like it a lot better. There is a family atmosphere; a jolly comraderie, an air of expectancy to have a good time. I don't feel like I'm being judged based on what kind of clothing I wear or how much I have researched it or what kinds of fabrics I've used to make it. In our reenacting world, oftentimes ones acceptance into a social circle is based purely on appearance. I can understand that, since I've been on that side of the fence. I know how disillusioning it is to put hard work into a researched outfit only to have everyone else show up in quasi-"old-fashoined" attire. But you know what? Most of my recent enjoyment at events has been from meeting other people, who wouldn't necessarily be considered ultra authentic but who have been some of the sweetest, most down to earth and enjoyable people I've met. I detest the snobbish attitude of some of the more authentic women cliques that we have around here at CW events. Those who snub and spurn or ignore others who they consider "below" them. . .now, I cannot say if this attitude it conscious since a lot of these ladies seem to be genuinely nice people, but it is how they come across purely from an observational point of view.

So anyway, the SCA is a refreshing change from all that. I feel that I can be myself and do not have to try to be something else, to please the standards of others. I have my own personal standards and you know what? That is all I need. That is really all I care about. Other people have standards that work for them. And everything is awesome that way.

I got a few more clothing items made for us so we at least were more fully dressed than our last event.  I got Davids over tunic made and made him and the boys hoods. I'm sorry the picture of David is so washed out but I think our camera needs to be replaced soon and this was the only picture I had of his full length outfit where he was not making a strange and horrific face. ;P

Our friend Peter came with us to 12th Night. What would we do without Peter's company, pray?! He is very dearly beloved of the boys  and a very old friend of mine - one of the very few male friends I had prior to my marriage that still continued to be my friend after my marriage - even writing hand written letters to keep in contact with me and David during times we did not have the internet or, in our early days of wedded life, even a phone. Peter has been taking fencing classes at college and I think he is very interested in joining our group. Now that he has been lured in, time to make him some proper clothes!

In a few weeks we'll be going to our first big event. In the meantime, the Christmas season seems to be truly over now and I still have my Christmas tree up! I think today I will tackle taking down the decorations and putting everything back into it's usual place, make some tea  and start school again with the little boys. We have had a few week break and they are eager to get back into their regular schedule. And for some illogical reason, I have a great desire to make a fan front dress in an early 1850's style. So we'll see where that desire leads. :) I feel like I need a REASON to make one, but the only truthful reason I have is . .. that I want to!

Have a wonderful week,
Love,

Sarah

The Sideless Surcote

I finished my surcote today and now, with a few accessories I still need to make, I will finally feel "fully dressed" for the 14th century.

The sideless surcote was worn with fitted kirtles/underdress and though at first glance it may strike you as dowdy and plain, once on a female form this is a *very* feminine style. During the few months I've been researching this kind of cote I have run across several contemporary descriptions that indicate that, in the 14th century, this was rather a revealing garment to wear. I don't know if the phrase "gates of hell" is authenticated (but it certainly often turns up when reading about this garment) but it creates an interesting mental picture of the way the curves of a woman, revealed through the cut away sides of this cote, may tempt a man into sin. Honestly, clothing and the inevitable people who complain about what they perceive as immodest styles have not really changed *at all* over the centuries!

Well ladies, if you have curves you might as well show them off. This is one period where being curvy is a good thing. :)

My surcote is made in a dark gray wool. I only had 3 yards of it but it was more than enough for this style. The construction and cut is really very simple and the drape and cut away armholes is what makes this garment stand out. The colors are a bit drab; in contemporary art brighter colors are often depicted. But, it is what I had and is what I used. Maybe my next outfit willl utilize some more cheerful colors.

I based the cut on the sideless surcote in The Medieval Tailors Assistant. I didn't follow the diagram exactly since the way it was cut would have created more width across the torso. I wanted it fairly straight to the hips, where it flares out with the use of four triangular gores to a full hem. A website that was helpful was this one: The Sideless Surcote Another helpful site was this one: Sideless Surcotes.

I apologize in advance for any typos. Our computer is kind of working, but the monitor is still very, very difficult to read.

Love,
Sarah

I Finished My Coat!

After lunch today, the boys decided to all three nap at once in the living room. Judah was the last to succumb to sleepiness and his little yellow head with his bright blue eyes peered silently at me as I sat on the couch opposite him and stitched away at six buttonholes to finish up my winter coat. The white lights on the Christmas tree sparkled, Malachi sighed in his sleep and shifted position. David was curled up next to me in a corner of the couch, a pillow on his legs for a blanket.

I battled with silk buttonhole twist, wax, and a very shifty area of moleskin and fleece. But, at last, it was done. My coat is finished! Yay! And just in time. Tomorrow we are supposed to get our first substantial snowfall of the year. And I will be ready for it! Hmm. I must make some peanut butter blossoms later this afternoon so we will have something nice and homey and chocolatey and peanut-buttery to eat while the snow flies outside.

I'm really rather happy with how my coat came out! David says it reminds him of an 1860's generals frock coat, reenactor-style. Reenactor style because the cuffs and collars are black velvet, while military regs of the 60's called for dark blue velvet. But most renactors just use black.

I was very bad this week and started a new sewing project before I got this one finished. I know! But it was an impulse thing. Here is a sneak peek of it; a 1930's/1940's style silky print blouse. I'm not much of a blouse person and I'm not very experienced at making blouses but I thought I'd give the pattern a whirl and I had the perfect fabric on hand to try it out in. (Thanks Jackie!!) It needs buttons and a hem and I need to sew the tucks down at the waist.

Have a great weekend everybody!
Love,
Sarah

Tis the Season to Stay Warm

Warm weather stayed for a long time this fall, but cold temperatures are inevitable - especially here in Illinois. We were blessed with a long and beautiful Indian summer but last week the month finally remembered it was November and the skies became overcast, the wind picked up and gray flimsy clouds scudded quickly overhead. Precipitation came - some hard icy bits of snow, freezing rain and plain rain.

Thanksgiving weekend was fun for David and I. We rarely get to go out by ourselves and my mother in law came over on Friday afternoon to watch the boys while David and I went to the Yule Ball and she stayed the night so as to watch them again on Saturday when we went Christmas shopping. While we were out, I realized I needed a coat. I have had many coats over the years but currently have a 7-year old denim coat lined with fleece - an old favorite, much worn - and a cream colored fleece coat that zips up the front. I love my denim coat but the fact that it is getting dingy is getting harder and harder to ignore. The cream coat is rather fashionable but it is absolutely not flattering on me and it is rather not warm. . .being made of a single layer of fleece, smooth on the outside and “fleecy” looking on the inside.

Some modern coats are hideous and some are actually pretty cute, but it always seems the cute ones are more than I want to spend. I have had good luck finding like-new things at thrift stores so we stopped at our favorite one on Saturday and I browsed their coat rack. There was a cute green one in my size, but it was way too long waisted. David pulled out a substantial snuff-colored woolen one, straight of the 70’s. . .it definitely looked warm but it was too hideous to wear, even for me. There was a 1980’s styled long black leather coat, embossed all over. It was actually tempting. . .but $17 for a used coat? I left the store feeling a little depressed and as we walked into Wal Mart, our last stop before going home, I shivered and pulled my coat tighter around me. Then I had a brilliant idea. I remembered 5 yards of a dark royal blue sueded moleskin I have been hoarding the past few months. I had no idea what to make with it. . .until then. I knew it was destined to become my new winter coat.

Wal Mart coughed up a few yards of black fleecy fabric for the body lining. . .it was ugly with a flashy zebra print on the right side, but the inside was perfectly good. From my stash I pulled some worsted wool scraps for the sleeve interlinings and cut up a dark red satin sheet for the sleeve lining. Black velvet bits cut from a pre-baby Laura Ashley dress was set aside to be lapels, the collar and cuffs.

I had a few ideas for the design but in the end went with what I knew was best for my needs. It had to be long enough to reach my boot tops. It had to have some feminine shape to it, darn it! I hate ugly coats that are all up and down angles and make one look like a stuffed sausage. It had to have fairly classic styling. I debated making a “real” historic style but tossed the idea. I always make historic things and then rarely wear them. . .this coat can go with modern or historic clothes and still look normal.

I settled on a princess style coat with a double breasted front closure, for extra warmth, with skirts flaring gently from a slightly fitted waist. The sleeves are plain and long. It is very basic, but, I hope, will be very serviceable for many years.

I have been working on it this week, more from necessity than from desire. I am really burned out on sewing right now but I really do need this coat. It is currently about 75% done. I need to hand stitch the lining to the armholes to finish the seams there, even out and make the hem and make buttons and buttonholes for the double breasted closure. I may make some pockets for the front - just welt pockets with a black velvet tab - but I don’t know for sure yet. I should. I use pockets as I rarely like to carry a purse. I need to decide before I do the hem, or else I won’t be able to access the outer layer separately and putting in the pockets will be hard and awkward.

It is hard to believe it is December 1st today! Where has the year gone?! We set up our Christmas tree over the weekend and I made my first batch of Christmas cookies. I want to savor every moment of this Christmas season instead of waking up in a few weeks and realizing “Oh my! Christmas is in three days!” We went to the Festival of Lights parade on Saturday night and the boys enjoyed seeing the huge lighted figures drive by. A very perfect way to kick off the Christmas season, I think. :)

Stay warm! Happiness to all!

Love,

Sarah

Finished Pictures - Wool Medieval Kirtle

Despite temperatures hovering in the 20's this afternoon, David was still obliging and took some photos of my finished dress so I can share them with my dear readers and fellow costume enthusiasts. A layer of linen and a layer of wool may not seem very warm, but I was actually far more comfortable being outside than I had anticipated. I still need a big heavy cloak though. :)

So this is my first kirtle. I was inspired by many costuming sites and will list the ones I found most helpful at the end of this post. I would like to encourage anyone who is thinking about making a dress in this style to just do it! I was intimidated at first because I have heard it is not possible to fit this kind of dress on oneself. I do not have a sewing buddy and my husband is rather . . .well. . .less than helpful with pins and fitting. ;) The fit is not perfect and the bustline is not as high as I may have been able to achieve with the help of a fitting buddy, but for a working class, active impression I think it will work nicely.

The fit is not all that different than fitting for a corset. The support of the bust is gained purely from the cut of the bodice and the natural stretch and molding abilities of the wool outer layer and linen (for the bodice) inner layer. The critical areas to fit are the neckline, shoulders and underbust. The bust is supported by the tight fit of the underbust and the bosom is pushed as high as it can go and held in place by the cut of the armscye, neckline and shoulders. To accomodate the resulting mounds of flesh, the neckline is cut away so as not to compress or flatten the shape. This may seem immodest, but after experimenting with several mock ups, it was the only way I found to get this shape and as this dress is meant to be, for full dress occasions, worn beneath an outer gown or kirtle, it is not really so bad. Since the bust is lifted as high or almost as high as it can possibly go, there is no danger of "falling" out of your bodice. I find the fit very comfortable and supportive and secure, similar to a sports-bra.

The kirtle is made from four pieces cut as rectangle, shaped above the hips to fit the torso/bust. Four gores were inserted at the sides and the front and back to add fullness to the hem. Since this is technically an under-dress it does not need to be as full as an outer gown. The hem on this one measures about 140". The Medieval Tailors Assistant calls for a kirtle hem of about 103" so mine is fuller than that - just because to me, that amount seemed so skimpy. The length is ankle length, for active wear. Fashionable ladies would have had longer, trailing hems. I plan to cook over a fire and chase children in this, so ankle length is the most practical for me.

I used a combination of machine and hand stitching. All the main seams are done on the machine but all the finishing work and any stitch visible from the outside is done by hand. The lacing cord I braided from four strands of brown wool yarn. It laces the fifty-three eyelets up from neckline to hip. I use a bobby pin to lace the cord up and have to almost fully unlace the dress when putting it on or taking it off. So far, it takes me about fifteen minutes to get this dress on and laced and everything arranged properly.

The sleeves are narrow but not tight. They are slit for about six inches up from the hem and close with six handmade ball buttons and buttonholes. A more fashionable lady may have many more buttons on her sleeves than these. The buttonholes are worked close to the edge of the sleeve and the buttons sewn directly on the edge, so there is very little overlap.

I made a simple and quick kerchief to wear based on instructions in The Medieval Tailors Assistant. It is basically a 32" square of white cotton (I had no linen light enough and TMTA recommended sheer cotton or semi sheer cotton to use in place of linen for headdresses) knotted at the neck and with the ends brought up and pinned around the face. It was very easy to make and it easy and comfortable to wear. Even in blustery winds, it did not come off my head. :)

My next accessory will be an apron. I definitely need an apron if I want to do work of any sort in this dress! Then I will be making a dark gray surcote to go over this dress, hopefully to be finished before January 8th. A hood would be nice too, for winter wear.

Here are some of the links I found very helpful:

Dame Helens Site
Jessamyn's Closet

Costly Thy Habit

From the Skin Out

Historical Life

La Cotte Simple

The Medieval Tailor

Robin Nethertons Site

Love,

Sarah

Malachi's Yellow Wool Medieval Gown

Yesterday afternoon was our first participation event with the Barony of Illiton. I just barely got our basic clothes finished in time. Actually, I still have quite a lot left to sew for us but at least we all had a basic garment to wear. I will never attempt to make a kirtle, two little-boy size tunics and a baby gown all in one week, ever again. It was a lot of work and the last few days incredibly stressful since I didn't think I'd get everything done in time.

I brought my camera to the event but due to the wild behaviour of our children, and my resulting disappearance from the audience to sweep the unruly boys outside, I did not get any pictures. At all. Much to my dismay, because there were some really lovely clothing examples there. I was so inspired by everyone and am sooooo excited about being a part of this awesome group of people.

Some of you may remember the diagram of a childs dress I posted about a few weeks ago. I fell in love with the style when I saw it so I was excited to try it for Malachi. It is an easy style to adapt to specific measurements and Malachi's dress ended up taking me only four hours to make, including a lot of handsewing. The wool is a yellow-tan color and is lightly twilled and a bit on the fuzzy side. In these pictures it looks a bit darker than it really is since I had to wash the gown this morning and it is still currently quite damp. Malachi decided to dunk a chicken leg in some beef stew and press it fondly against his heart yesterday, leaving quite a horrid pinkish-brown spot down the front of the dress! Thankfully the stain came out after two washings!

I absolutely love how clever 14th century cutting and piecing techniques are! Malachi wears a size 2/3 and this dress, being full length, took just under a yard of 60" wide wool.

I cut it large, so hopefully it will fit him for a while. It is unlined and the neck is faced with a straight grain strip of lightweight linen.

He looked quite adorable, if I do say so myself. ;) Unfortunately, he is learning how to use his cuteness to advantage in order to attempt to decieve and emotionally control other people. Sigh.

Here is me and my baby boy. I am pretty happy with how my kirtle came out, although I think I may have to take it in a little under the bust since it seemed to stretch a bit as I wore it. I will hopefully have pictures of it later this week, as David will have some time off for Thanksgiving and will be able to help me take some photos. I think I'm hooked on medieval style clothing!

Have a wonderful start to your week, dear ones!

Love,

Sarah

Kirtle Progress

I have been working on my kirtle this week and today finished what I think was the most time consuming part - the eyelets. They are spaced 3/4" apart from neckline to hip level so there were a lot of them. It took me about 3 hours to do the eyelets and another hour to make the lacing cord. I was extremely nervous when I tried on the kirtle to make sure of the fit before I continue on with finishing it. Here are some pics of it so far, thoughbe forewarned; they are very bad pictures and I look horrible in them but they will give you an idea of the look.

I am pretty happy with how it is working, though! When I stand perfectly still it fits smoothly, but as soon as I move, well, there are wrinkles around the waist. Not terrible by any means, but they are there. Sigh. I guess I will have to wear this and get used to how it fits and feels and moves with my body.

I have to make the sleeves still and then hem the skirt, but otherwise the hard parts are done.

It is such a simple garment, but the more I work with these styles the more I realize that it is the simpler garments that are hardest to make well. Because of the utter simplicity of style, everything must be executed as flawlessly as possible - the fitting, the cutting, the stitching. If not, the error glares out at you and makes everything look just awful. No room for error to be hidden beneath gathers or pleats. :P No corset to take the strain of wear - it must be fitted exactly so, to support yet not be too tight nor too loose.

It is definitely not perfect but for my first kirtle I'm pleased. It will work! The only thing that really bugs me is the drape of the skirt at appx. hip level on the front of the dress - see how it kind of droops in a scallopy shape? I think it's because of my stomach though. :P If I suck my stomach in to appear more slim, it droops. If I let it naturally bulge out (having 3 babies just does that ;) ) it does not really droop at all. I guess I will have to get used to the protruding stomach look.

More pics this weekend of everyone, hopefully!

Love,
Sarah

1860's Ballgown Progress

Not completely done - but almost! I should have this sucker finished tomorrow and then I can relax and breathe a sigh of relief as I lay it away for the Yule Ball.

I really had no idea how it was going to come out. A dear lady I made some gowns for earlier this year gifted me with this beautiful taffeta after I told her the blue-green color of the dresses I made for her reminded me of my Grammie. Unbeknownst to me, this dear woman searched high and low to find the same fabric to give to me since I had liked the color so much. She couldn't find the exact fabric, but this shade is very close. This was back in the summer - since then, I have wondered about how I ought to make this up and at last, with the ball coming up in a few weeks, I decided now was the time to do it.

I could have made it perfectly plain - but what fun is that? I drew lots of sketches and at last settled on what has always been my "dream gown" design. I always loved Disneys Cinderella. I watched it every day when I was little (just like my boys now love to watch Cars and Toy Story.) You know the dress the mice make for Cinderella so she can go to the ball? It is pink and whit eand has scallops and flounces. Very pretty and one dress I've always wanted. So I trimmed the skirt with two rows of ruching in a scalloped shape. To dress up the plain fabric, I added a fringe of clear beads between the rows of ruching. Although the bodice is not done yet, it will also have two rows of ruching and one of beads as well. The sleeves are trimmed with beads at the hem and will have one row of ruching just above the hem. I may make some poufy sheer white undersleeves but I haven't decided for sure yet. The trim on the bodice is just hastily pinned on for the pictures. I may move the position of the beaded fringe to a gentle curving horizontal line instead of the corset-like line it has. . .I think that may "go" with the skirt better.

For Christmas, the high points of the scallops are trimmed with a gold poinsettia. I have doubts as to the period-correctness of gold poinsettias, but this ball is not really a strict ball by any sense of the word and the gold looks pretty with the green. :) After Christmas, I can easily take off the tacked on flowers and replace them with other flowers, or bows, or ribbon clusters, etc. Or leave any trim there off altogether.

All that is left to do is to make and attach the bodice and sleeve ruching and attach the sleeves and sew on the hooks.

Right now it's lunch time! Time for soup and crackers and shutting windows. The whole area, outside and in, reeks strongly of ammonia. I'm hoping its just a standard thing that farmers put on their fields in the fall. Whew. It's awfully powerful.

Have a great weekend everybody!

Love,


Sarah

David's Brown Linen Medieval Tunic

This week has been one of making David's tunic. He was sick on Monday so he stayed home from work. I draped the pattern on him that afternoon, cut the fabric on Tuesday and started sewing. I finished the garment a little while ago and he tried it on for the last time - the last time prior to his first event, that is! :)

This is technically a "Middle garment", being worn over his undershirt but underneath an outer garment. I haven't made his outer tunic yet, so for now, he has to make do with this. It has some rectangular construction (skirt gores, lower skirts) but the chest and shoulders are fitted and the sleeve is a transitional type sleeve that is curved in shape but set in with a gusset.

The fabric is a medium weight brown linen. I got the linen from Fashion Fabrics Club and wasn't happy with the rest of the order so I was reimbursed - and got to keep the fabrics. There is some controversy as to whether linen was used for main garments during this era, with it being th ough wool is generally more accurate to use, but I didn't know that before I got this fabric. David really liked it, so I used it. Most of it will be hidden beneath the outer garment anyway.

The sleeves were the thing that gave me the most trouble. The first sleeves I made had the buttonholes on the wrong side, so I made a new set of sleeves this morning. I had to sew the new ones in twice to get them to hang right but I think now they will work nicely!

Hopefully this coming week I'll get my kirtle done! I have an 1860's ballgown to make for a ball the day after Thanksgiving too. So much to sew!

Have a wonderful weekend!

Love,
Sarah