I finished my surcote today and now, with a few accessories I still need to make, I will finally feel "fully dressed" for the 14th century.
The sideless surcote was worn with fitted kirtles/underdress and though at first glance it may strike you as dowdy and plain, once on a female form this is a *very* feminine style. During the few months I've been researching this kind of cote I have run across several contemporary descriptions that indicate that, in the 14th century, this was rather a revealing garment to wear. I don't know if the phrase "gates of hell" is authenticated (but it certainly often turns up when reading about this garment) but it creates an interesting mental picture of the way the curves of a woman, revealed through the cut away sides of this cote, may tempt a man into sin. Honestly, clothing and the inevitable people who complain about what they perceive as immodest styles have not really changed *at all* over the centuries!
Well ladies, if you have curves you might as well show them off. This is one period where being curvy is a good thing. :)
My surcote is made in a dark gray wool. I only had 3 yards of it but it was more than enough for this style. The construction and cut is really very simple and the drape and cut away armholes is what makes this garment stand out. The colors are a bit drab; in contemporary art brighter colors are often depicted. But, it is what I had and is what I used. Maybe my next outfit willl utilize some more cheerful colors.
I based the cut on the sideless surcote in
The Medieval Tailors Assistant. I didn't follow the diagram exactly since the way it was cut would have created more width across the torso. I wanted it fairly straight to the hips, where it flares out with the use of four triangular gores to a full hem. A website that was helpful was this one:
The Sideless Surcote Another helpful site was this one:
Sideless Surcotes.
I apologize in advance for any typos. Our computer is kind of working, but the monitor is still very, very difficult to read.
Love,
Sarah
