Vermilion County Civil War Days 2010

This past weekend was one of our favorite fall Civil War events and even though David was feeling rather poorly, we packed up our babies, our gear and Peter, my "brother", ;) and headed out on Friday evening. We set up camp in the dark, David made a good, warm fire and thus our home for the weekend was established.

I have been feeling really bad lately about how the civilian presence in a military camp can really destroy the accurate impression that might otherwise be made. Our medical unit is made of four families and among us there are four children, a young lady, four women and Peter. This time, instead of setting up directly with the hospital, David and I decided to try camping on our own. We had our own fire, we were seperated from the medical location and I think this is a better compromise than having our family right next to the hospital. A tent with a surgeons family, right next to a field hospital just very likely would not have happened. We still visited with our fellow group members and hung out, at times, beneath their hospitable fly, but we were not dwelling among them. :) We will never have an 1860's mindest or way of thinking. We are products of a modern age, even if we resent that. ;) But a baby step forward is progress. Accuracy is a process, not a destination! We will never reach a total level of correctness. But as long as we are making an effort to improve, bit by bit, I think that is commendable. :)

It was a fun event. We did experience a mishap when the temperatures plummeted and the rain began to fall earnestly on Saturday night. Shivering and damp, the children and I just wanted to lay down in our tent and pull up the covers to get warm while David tended the fire. Unfortunately, we forgot to put our fly up over our tent and when we went inside we discovered the roof was leaking. Large puddles had already formed on the boys blankets and cots and our bed was likewise very damp. Having really no other alternative, we decided to go home for the night and come back in the morning. It was a good decision in the end. We got a good nights sleep in a warm, dry house and I was able to dress myself and Malachi in our wool gowns since Sunday was crisp and breezy - and the sheer dress I had originally brought for Sunday would NOT have been suitable!

Danville is a very family friendly event. It is a lovely location and I met some wonderful people. Since our events are very mainstream, one of the best things about them, for me, is meeting new folks. It gives me a good reason to keep coming out. :)

On Sunday there was a demonstration of the Appomattox surrender. I must say, viewing that gave me goosebumps and caused tears to rise in my eyes and course down my face. The gentlemen portraying Lee, Grant and their staff were excellent at what they did. The saddest part was Lee's controlled sadness and pasion as he rose after signing the surrender agreement. The gray and butternut-clad Confederates, war-torn, veteran and filled with respect and love for their commander, lined the road where Lee exited the lawn of the house. His words to them were unforgettable.

I did not, alas, wear my new sunbonnet at all and as a consequence got sunburned. I brought my straw bonnet and was so afraid of it getting crushed, as, in sad and past experience, other fashion bonnets of mine have been. I decided the only safe place for it was on my head. :) Fashion bonnets may be pretty but they really do nothing to preseve one's complexion! I suppose that is an excuse for a repro parasol sometime in the future!

More pictures here: Danville 2010

Love,
Sarah

Practical Head-ware

I thought about finishing my brown drawn bonnet for use this fall at events. It has only been in progress since February. But I rejected the idea in favor of making a new sunbonnet since I sold the ones I had previously made and was without one entirely. And, gasp, is it not rather *shocking* to go about bare-headed? (although I usually do. . .)

This one is made from Timely Tresses Lucy Amelia Sunbonnet pattern. This is the 3rd one I have made from this pattern and I must say, I do like it very much. It has a pleasant shape that flares from the head instead of encasing it in long vertical lines. The long vertical lines were just not doing it for me, you know. I am not exactly thrilled to see myself in a such a bonnet and be grimly reminded of the long, narrow face of a mule. This pattern is a different. And I do like it. Perhaps this will take care of my preference to wear nothing on my head at all.

The brim is made from a double layer of white and blue striped cotton. The brim is interlined with two layers of cotton flannel, for stiffness and washability and the whole thing is hand quilted for sturdiness and shape. The crown is just one layer of fabric and there is a drawstring adjustment for the neckline and ties at the neck and under the chin.

I love how fast this pattern works up - both quilted bonnets I have made from this pattern have taken just one day to complete. The corded one (with over 25 rows of cording if I recall correctly) took just two afternoons. I don't usually use patterns but this is definitely a keeper!

Fall is surely here and this weekend we are off to another event. If I try very hard I may succeed in being a good girl and keeping my bonnet on when out and about!

Love,

Sarah

1850's Plaid Gown, Sleeves, Collar and Skirt

Some of you may remember the royal blue satin-and-velvet ballgown I made earlier this year for my friend Nona. Nona is just the loveliest person to work with in costuming. She is thorough in her planning, she knows exactly what she wants and she doesn't complain about being fitted. :)

After her ball gown was finished Nona brought me the Simplicity 3727 pattern along with a beautiful blue and green cotton plaid. She loved the style and the fabric was exactly what she had in mind. She told me to take my time and not rush with this dress since she did not need it right away.

Finally - after five months! - I am starting on this dress. I hope to have it done so Nona can use it next weekend at our next Civil War event. I am rather glad I did not make it earlier this year since it is working up to be quite visually heavy - more appropriate for cooler weather than warm.

Simplicity 3727 is a pattern based on an original dress from the Wisconsin Historical Society. It is more of an 1850's style than a true Civil War (1861-1865) style, but even so, this style is really far more appropraite than most gowns seen at events around here. ;) And Nona is a bit older, so perhaps this may have been a style she would have liked and would have continued using in the period. I have made 2 other dresses from this pattern for other people, but this is the first one I am making in a natural fiber! *bliss* Synthetics just do NOT work well for mid-19th century sewing!

The fabric is a 100% cotton plaid in dark royal blue and emerald green. Nona looks very nice in these rich, clear, dark colors. The trimming is black cotton fringe and black velvet ribbon. The ribbon is made from bias strips of velvet yardage, which was a lot more economical than purchasing ready-to-use velvet ribbon. I just "eyeballed" the strips but tried to keep them at about 3/4" wide. The sleeves are partially open, and instead of the fringe trimming the edges of this opening, Nona opted for black cord frogs to close this opening decoratively. Matchings frogs will be used as decoration on the bodice. The lower sleeve is lined with black cotton sateen and the upper sleeve with plain white cotton.

The sleeves are really very rich and heavy looking. I love the contrast of texture and mood between the sleeves and the undersleeves. The undersleeves are quite light and dainty and have a very feminine pointed cuff, which I love, and are trimmed with very dainty lace. They close at the wrist with a buttohole and shell button.

The collar is also of light white cotton and trimmed with the same lace. Here you can see how large the collar is. This definitely dates the dress to the 50's. By the 60's, the collars were much more narrow. I still have to slip stitch the bias band to cover the seam allowance on this collar, then it will be ready to baste into the neckline of the basque once that is finished.

No pics of the skirt - but its just a plain old rectangular paneled skirt with the typical hem facing and waistband. :) This weekend Nona will be coming over to get fitted for the basque. Hopefully we won't run into any snags and I can get some pictures of Nona wearing this gown next weekend!

Love,

Sarah

Havana Civil War Dance

David, Peter and I had a great time at the Havana dance this past Saturday evening. The weather was cool and crisp and breezy. We had a small group, but it was delightful and even more so when the spectators came on the dance floor and joined in with us.

For the first time in a long time, I got to actually dance more than one or two dances! I was even able to learn a few new ones, due to some lovley people who were willing to take us more inexperienced folk under their wing. This was because the boy-o's were left with grandmama and I did not have to chase them around. Though I was grateful for some "grown up" time, I did miss them terribly and was very glad to see them again when I got home. David enjoyed himself immensely and thinks we ought to attend dance practice twice a month and have someone watch the boys while we do that. I don't know. I have very very rarely ever been away from the boys since they were born. I think they would be fine to be away from us for a few hours every other week - but would I?

For more pictures, you can go here.

Have a lovely Labor Day!

Love,

Sarah

1930's Style Red and Cream Cotton Dress

At last I have some pictures of my 1930's style red and cream dress! I've had this done for a while and have worn it a lot. It is definitely a new favorite. It's a bit difficult for me to go through the murk and mire of 1860's fashion that has more recently been going through my head, but I believe with this dress I wanted to go for a more early-to-mid 30's look with slightly longer, slimmer skirts, more flare at the hem and with a lot of emphasis on the shoulder/neckline area.

There were two dresses I based this one off of. One was a reprinted Past Patterns pattern for an earlier 1930's dress, and one was in an ad from a 1934 Sears Catalog. The pattern is very basic. The bodice is my base one that is slashed and spread at the chest level for some fullness to be gathered into a center front seam. The sleeves are circular two layer flutter sleeves with the upper sleeve being slightly smaller than the under sleeve. The skirt is made in six gores and is cut to be a little generous at the waist, fitting not too loose nor too tight over the hips and coming in again around knee level to create a little shaping before finally flaring out into a trumpet like shape at the hem, which ends a bit above the ankle.

The fabric is a lovely 100% cotton voile I got from Jo Anns last year. It was on clearance in the home dec department. The red floral print is HUGE so I wasn't sure how well it would look as a garment. But I was pleasantly suprised it worked quite well for a dress. I just had to be careful where I placed the big floral motifs so I would not end up looking lopsided when I wore the dress! I squeezed this dress out of 3 yards of fabric with almost a half yard left to spare. I love dresses that take such little bits of fabric. :) The fabric is very sheer so I had to make a slip to wear under it - which you have already seen in my post quite a few post backs about the ultra-modern 1930's bias cup slip. :P

I have more 30's dresses planned! I even bought fabric a few weeks ago for another summer style one; a pretty blue-green cotton printed with pink flowers. I hope I get a chance to make it while it is still warm enough to wear it! I just need to get through reenacting season with my interest in the 30's intact. Reenacting sewing has a way of draining my mind of everything but the 1860's. ;) This week it's mens clothes. . .and finishing my new quilt, if I get the time!

Love,
Sarah

Galesburg Heritage Days

Our fall reenacting season kicked off this past weekend. Despite a little rain and a camp-site that was a wee bit too small for our unit, it was a lovely weekend and we all had a great time. However, I am t.i.r.e.d.! And coming back from an event - especially a warm one - makes me appreciate my own bathroom and my own shower and my own bed a whole lot more than usual. Ummm. Luxery.

We had a nice size group with us this year. Jenny P. and her husband came out as well as my friend Peter. Miss C. also attended with us, this being her first event. Being in good company always makes an event far nicer than being alone.

I am exhausted and really don't have much time to write a nice blog post about the event. However, I do have some pictures from this weekend up here: Galesburg Pics We have a dial up internet connection and I thought it would be easier to just link to this page than upload all the pictures all over again here!

Our next event is a dance on the 4th of September. It will just be David and I that day, along with our friend Peter. I am contemplating making up my ball gown for it, though it will be only an outside dance. We'll see what happens when I get some energy back! ;)

Have a lovely week!
Love,

Sarah

The Smallest Kepi

I have made a lot of American Civil War reenactment clothing over the years. However, I have never made a kepi before and I have never made anything for an animal before. When our unit commander asked me a few months ago if I thought I could make a kepi for our units mascot, a little yorkie-poo doggie named McGregor I hesitated at first. But then he said "I know you probably can't do this. . ." and that was it. I just had to prove I could!

The kepi was probably the most common form of headgear worn by Union troops in the 1860's. If I remember correctly, the kepi was adopted from the French army. They are impractical things, of course, but the army didn't seem to think of practicality in the clothing they issued at times. :) I began to study David's kepis to get an idea of the shape and realized a kepi is a pretty basic thing, after all. A circular, stiffened crown, a shaped band, a rectangular band on the bottom, a leather brim and leather chin strap- which, if pictorial evidence is any guide, was hardly ever used as a chin strap and served mainly as a decorative addition to the kepi.

For McGregor's kepi I asked for his weight and used a similary sized stuffed animal as a guide. I used scraps of blue wool flannel left over from David's sack coat for the main part, lined it with black polished cotton and used bits of soft, old black leather from an ancient duffel bag in my possession for the brim and the chin strap. Alas, I did not have any small Federal Eagle buttons to put on the kepi so two four-hole brass buttons were used instead.

To accomodate pointy doggie ears I added narrow black grosgrain ribbon in V shapes at each side. A long tie was attached to the point of each V to tie under his chin. Modeling the kepi is little David's stuffed doggie who has approximately the same size head as McGregor.

I'm crossing my fingers that this will fit him. . .hopefully it will. I will find out Friday!

Love,
Sarah

Finished Wrapper and Thoughts on Modesty

For my dear readers who have so patiently endured the construction posts detailing the making of this garment, I thank you for your longsuffering. The wrapper is done - except the petticoat, but it is totally wearable as-is with plain petticoats - and, until I decide I need to make another one, you will hear of the wrapper no more. At least, potentially. :)

However, this will not be just a wrapper-post. I will get into the dangerous waters of talking about modesty. I don’t want to talk about it but feel that I ought to since, it seems, more often lately, I have heard from ladies and young ladies who admire modest attire and take it for granted that I am a modestly dressed person. For the past few months I have felt very hypocritical about allowing such things to be thought - because, the truth is, I don’t believe, per se, in “modesty”.

I *used* to. Oh yes, for many years I draped myself in long, dark clothes which slowly crept into historic fashion, which I totally fell in love with. My mother was concerned at the time because she thought I was becoming legalistic. I thought I wasn’t - but I was. In my late teens I was so judgemental and critical of others who did not have the same standards of dress that I did. The Lord is so gracious, and thankfully has shown me, gently, that my ways are not His ways. . .and He leads everyone according to His plan for them. My clothes are my own matters. Other people’s clothes are their own matters. I have enough to do trying to run my own life. Other people have enough to do running their own lives!

When I went to college at age 18, I wore “weird” clothes. They probably would be considered modest by most modern day people, but I didn’t really wear them *because* they were modest. It was because I thought they were pretty, a little different and it was what I liked. I experienced some snobbery from other “modestly” dressed girls, who usually had cliques and little sub-groups. I felt they didn't like me or accept me because I didn't wear what they did - jean skirts with slits in the back or sides, polo shirts and the latest in runniing shoes. My gunne sax dresses, lacey shawls and granny boots condemned me to other "black sheep" - who were, in fact, some of the most interesting people I've ever known. I felt an outcast. One person who was always very nice and pleasant was a girl with dreadlocks and who dressed in Goth style clothing. I never knew her name, but we chatted in the bathroom or the halls and smiled and nodded when we’d pass each other on the way to classes. She told me she liked the way I dressed and often asked about different skirts I wore or a long green coat I patterned and made. My best girl friend in college was Joyce, who never wore skirts or dresses. In fact, on the last day of class she said she’d wear a skirt if I wore trousers (since she had never seen me in pants!) so we did. :)

I could go on and on with similar experiences - but in the end, I realized that trying to be modest was not for me because it automaticaly made me have a bad attitude towards those who were not dressed as I thought they should be. My own thoughts of modesty set a standard I thought everyone should adhere to! So now I just dress in what works for me and how I feel God wants *me* to dress. And *for me*. I have come to the conclusion that what is right *for me* is probably not just right for everyone else. Look at the idea of modesty. For some it means to be clad head to toe in long, loose garments with head coverings and thick dark stockings and shoes. For others, a long denim skirt and a comfortably loose t-shirt does the trick. For others, a knee-length skirt or even trousers is enough to make them feel comfortable. Other girls like to wear short-shorts and cropped tops. And everyone in these cases may feel they are dressed comfortable, attractively and appropriately. Will they all agree with each other? Probably most definitely not! But they have chosen what they feel is the best choice for themselves, for whatever reasons or standards they have.

I like long skirts. I like clothes that do not emphasize every roll or bump. I like historic fashion. Okay. I LOVE historic fashion!! So that is what influences my clothing choices. Is my clothing “modest”? To me, it is. But I prefer not to use the word “modest” since it really has no set meaning that is the same for each person. And historic fashion is not necessarily modest. In fact, almost ever fashion era I've studied emphasizes the female form which many do not consider to be modest. Women "back then" wanted to appear attractive and desirable. Human nature has not changed with the years.  My mother told me several times about how she thought regency gowns could be immodest because they emphasize the bosom, and how 1860's styles could be considered immodest because they are so tightly fitted through the bodice. And - her observations are totally right.

So yesterday I wore my wrapper in public, to several stores and to a park where we picnicked and walked around. It was fun, I felt comfortable and I found out that yes, a supportive undergarment of some kind is necessary with this. :P

And a girl with short shorts told me she liked it. :)

Love,

Sarah

Wrapper Progress - Facings, Hems and Sleeves

I got the facings on the long front openings sewn down yesterday and then attached the hem facing. The hem facing is about 4" wide and protects the hem from wear and tear. It is a fun pinkish red print that is a cheerful glimpse of color - not that anyone is supposed to see it!

After that I sewed up the sleeves. They are a variation of my basic one piece coat sleeve. They are still cut on the fold, but the bottom edge is curved and belled slightly. They come to just above my wrist and will be worn with open undersleeves. This eliminates a close fitting cuff for maximum coolness; after all, this wrapper is meant to be hot-weather wear. If I like it a lot I may make another one specifically for cooler weather. I sewed a band of horizontal stripes to each sleeve to visually emphasize the width of the sleeve. The band is sewn down by machine close to the folded edge. This was a lot quicker to do than sewing it down by hand!

The skirt also got a horizontal striped band. The band is about 2 3/4" wide and is placed 8" above the hem. This seemed to work best for my height and figure and for the fact that this probably will not be worn over a cage. I would probably have made the band a little wider and a little higher up on the skirt if I were to wear this mainly over a cage.

Next I piped the armscyes. I had to piece in a little bit on the back armscye. For some reason I cut it weird and the sleeve would not have set smoothly unless I pieced in a half circle shape on each back shoulder. That done, I set in the sleeves. They have two small pleats at the back shoulder to create room for movement.

Try on time! Here I just threw it on over my modern clothes and tied the belt loosely in the front. So far it seems to be working well. The basic construction of the wrapper is now done. Yeah! Now I need to sew hook and eyes to the lining and I am contemplating making functional buttonholes to close the outer layer of the wrapper at the front. I have some pretty mother-of-pearl buttons I'd like to use for the front (it will be closed to the waist) but I need to do a little more research to make sure that they are okay to use before I put them on.

Love,

Sarah

Wrapper Progress - Bodice Fronts, Lining and Tie Belt

 I may be posting a little more often over the next few days as I work more on my wrapper. This is more for my benefit than for any assumed interest of my dear readers - for, alas, I often make something and then when I want to make a similar item, I have forgotten how I made the first one!

Since yesterday, I have whipped on the skirt to the bodice back and sides and attached the bodice front pieces. The bodice fronts are cut with the bodice and skirts all in one, eliminating a waist seam for the center front. The bodice fronts are also cut quite wide (half of a 45" panel for each front bodice piece) and the excess width is pleated into the shoulder to create fullness over the bosom and into the skirts. The white cotton lining, however, is cut without the extra width and is cut to end at the waistline. I turned up a narrow casing at the bottom of each front lining for a drawstring to adjust the fit at the waist. Any extra fullness on the drawstring comes only from what would in an ordinary dress be darted, so there will not be much bulk there.

After sewing the center fronts to the wrapper and stitching the shoulder seam, I decided to try it on to see if the fit was working. So far so good! The pleats need to be pressed and I need to turn and stitch the self facings on the front openings but otherwise, I'm thrilled with it!

I cut the neckline down to a V shape and piped the edge. I want the lining to close seperately from the outer layer so clipped the seam allowance of the lining only a few inches up from the center front edge of the bodice. This clipped area I turned to the inside and hemmed down by hand.

Here's a picture showing the lining and the drawstring to adjust the waist. From what I've read, it was more common to have the lining fitted with darts but I chose to use a drawstring for a few reasons. 1. This will not be worn with a corset. I don't know about you ladies, but my body certainly is NOT the same from day to day. Especially during "that time of month" and some days my clothing fits tighter or looser than others. I don't want a closely fitted darted lining if some days I need to let things out a little. Especially when its hot. 2. The drawstring will be very handy if, Lord willing, we are ever expecting again. If that happens, I can even leave the lining unfastened on the inside to allow for belly expansion and use the drawstring to tie the lining shut at the waistline over the bump.

Now I need to work on the sleeves and the skirt hem. . .I should definitely be finished before next weekend! I can't wait to wear it!

Love,

Sarah