Showing posts with label Wrapper. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wrapper. Show all posts

Friday, August 5, 2011

1860's Wrapper - The Pajama Pants and T-Shirt of the Mid-19th Century

Since making my own wrapper last year I have come to love this versatile garment. I truly don't know how I got along without one. It is just so handy since, with it's adjustable drawstring waist in the lining and loose belted front, I can wear it with or without a corset, with or without a hoop, for set up or tear down at events, for cooking, for early morning activities at events where I have no yet had time to get properly dressed. A wrapper is a fantastic item to have and I was so pleased when my friend Laura agreed to let me make one for her.



This one is made in the same style as my green striped wrapper - that is, one that looks like a dress from the back and the sides but has a loose fitting front that is cut all in one piece - the skirt and bodice are not separate. The excess fullness in the front is pleated into the shoulder and the waist is loosely fitted with a tie belt - so, it is very very flexible in sizing. There is a semi fitted lining inside the wrapper that fastens separately from the outside layer.

I didn't trim my wrapper very much and wanted to trim this one to look more wrapper-like. Many extant wrappers of the 1860's are very loud - almost gaudily so - so, although I didn't want something clownish looking I did decide to go for loud trim.

I used bands of an orangey-brown cotton for wide swaths of color on the skirt, and a smaller scaled version for the full bishop sleeves. The buttons down the front are purely decorative and are made by gathering circles of the cotton over metal washers. The full length opening on a wrapper make it distinctive from an ordinary, common dress which usually opened only to the waist or to just below the waist.

It is the popular thought, based on current research, that wrappers were used mainly as private, in-home attire for relaxed, casual occasions and sometimes for use as a working dress for hard manual labor. Wrappers exist in everything from the humblest cotton to fancy silks with expensive trim. The wrapper spanned social class and found a useful, functional place in the wardrobe of many women from many geographical, cultural and social backgrounds.

Hopefully this one will be useful to Laura in her reenacting journey and I hope she has as much fun wearing it as I had making it!

Love,
Sarah

Monday, August 16, 2010

Finished Wrapper and Thoughts on Modesty

For my dear readers who have so patiently endured the construction posts detailing the making of this garment, I thank you for your longsuffering. The wrapper is done - except the petticoat, but it is totally wearable as-is with plain petticoats - and, until I decide I need to make another one, you will hear of the wrapper no more. At least, potentially. :)
However, this will not be just a wrapper-post. I will get into the dangerous waters of talking about modesty. I don’t want to talk about it but feel that I ought to since, it seems, more often lately, I have heard from ladies and young ladies who admire modest attire and take it for granted that I am a modestly dressed person. For the past few months I have felt very hypocritical about allowing such things to be thought - because, the truth is, I don’t believe, per se, in “modesty”.

I *used* to. Oh yes, for many years I draped myself in long, dark clothes which slowly crept into historic fashion, which I totally fell in love with. My mother was concerned at the time because she thought I was becoming legalistic. I thought I wasn’t - but I was. In my late teens I was so judgemental and critical of others who did not have the same standards of dress that I did. The Lord is so gracious, and thankfully has shown me, gently, that my ways are not His ways. . .and He leads everyone according to His plan for them. My clothes are my own matters. Other people’s clothes are their own matters. I have enough to do trying to run my own life. Other people have enough to do running their own lives!

When I went to college at age 18, I wore “weird” clothes. They probably would be considered modest by most modern day people, but I didn’t really wear them *because* they were modest. It was because I thought they were pretty, a little different and it was what I liked. I experienced some snobbery from other “modestly” dressed girls, who usually had cliques and little sub-groups. I felt they didn't like me or accept me because I didn't wear what they did - jean skirts with slits in the back or sides, polo shirts and the latest in runniing shoes. My gunne sax dresses, lacey shawls and granny boots condemned me to other "black sheep" - who were, in fact, some of the most interesting people I've ever known. I felt an outcast. One person who was always very nice and pleasant was a girl with dreadlocks and who dressed in Goth style clothing. I never knew her name, but we chatted in the bathroom or the halls and smiled and nodded when we’d pass each other on the way to classes. She told me she liked the way I dressed and often asked about different skirts I wore or a long green coat I patterned and made. My best girl friend in college was Joyce, who never wore skirts or dresses. In fact, on the last day of class she said she’d wear a skirt if I wore trousers (since she had never seen me in pants!) so we did. :)

I could go on and on with similar experiences - but in the end, I realized that trying to be modest was not for me because it automaticaly made me have a bad attitude towards those who were not dressed as I thought they should be. My own thoughts of modesty set a standard I thought everyone should adhere to! So now I just dress in what works for me and how I feel God wants *me* to dress. And *for me*. I have come to the conclusion that what is right *for me* is probably not just right for everyone else. Look at the idea of modesty. For some it means to be clad head to toe in long, loose garments with head coverings and thick dark stockings and shoes. For others, a long denim skirt and a comfortably loose t-shirt does the trick. For others, a knee-length skirt or even trousers is enough to make them feel comfortable. Other girls like to wear short-shorts and cropped tops. And everyone in these cases may feel they are dressed comfortable, attractively and appropriately. Will they all agree with each other? Probably most definitely not! But they have chosen what they feel is the best choice for themselves, for whatever reasons or standards they have.
I like long skirts. I like clothes that do not emphasize every roll or bump. I like historic fashion. Okay. I LOVE historic fashion!! So that is what influences my clothing choices. Is my clothing “modest”? To me, it is. But I prefer not to use the word “modest” since it really has no set meaning that is the same for each person. And historic fashion is not necessarily modest. In fact, almost ever fashion era I've studied emphasizes the female form which many do not consider to be modest. Women "back then" wanted to appear attractive and desirable. Human nature has not changed with the years.  My mother told me several times about how she thought regency gowns could be immodest because they emphasize the bosom, and how 1860's styles could be considered immodest because they are so tightly fitted through the bodice. And - her observations are totally right.
So yesterday I wore my wrapper in public, to several stores and to a park where we picnicked and walked around. It was fun, I felt comfortable and I found out that yes, a supportive undergarment of some kind is necessary with this. :P

And a girl with short shorts told me she liked it. :)

Love,

Sarah

Friday, August 13, 2010

Wrapper Progress - Facings, Hems and Sleeves

I got the facings on the long front openings sewn down yesterday and then attached the hem facing. The hem facing is about 4" wide and protects the hem from wear and tear. It is a fun pinkish red print that is a cheerful glimpse of color - not that anyone is supposed to see it!

After that I sewed up the sleeves. They are a variation of my basic one piece coat sleeve. They are still cut on the fold, but the bottom edge is curved and belled slightly. They come to just above my wrist and will be worn with open undersleeves. This eliminates a close fitting cuff for maximum coolness; after all, this wrapper is meant to be hot-weather wear. If I like it a lot I may make another one specifically for cooler weather. I sewed a band of horizontal stripes to each sleeve to visually emphasize the width of the sleeve. The band is sewn down by machine close to the folded edge. This was a lot quicker to do than sewing it down by hand!

The skirt also got a horizontal striped band. The band is about 2 3/4" wide and is placed 8" above the hem. This seemed to work best for my height and figure and for the fact that this probably will not be worn over a cage. I would probably have made the band a little wider and a little higher up on the skirt if I were to wear this mainly over a cage.
Next I piped the armscyes. I had to piece in a little bit on the back armscye. For some reason I cut it weird and the sleeve would not have set smoothly unless I pieced in a half circle shape on each back shoulder. That done, I set in the sleeves. They have two small pleats at the back shoulder to create room for movement.

Try on time! Here I just threw it on over my modern clothes and tied the belt loosely in the front. So far it seems to be working well. The basic construction of the wrapper is now done. Yeah! Now I need to sew hook and eyes to the lining and I am contemplating making functional buttonholes to close the outer layer of the wrapper at the front. I have some pretty mother-of-pearl buttons I'd like to use for the front (it will be closed to the waist) but I need to do a little more research to make sure that they are okay to use before I put them on.

Love,
Sarah

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Wrapper Progress - Bodice Fronts, Lining and Tie Belt


 I may be posting a little more often over the next few days as I work more on my wrapper. This is more for my benefit than for any assumed interest of my dear readers - for, alas, I often make something and then when I want to make a similar item, I have forgotten how I made the first one!

Since yesterday, I have whipped on the skirt to the bodice back and sides and attached the bodice front pieces. The bodice fronts are cut with the bodice and skirts all in one, eliminating a waist seam for the center front. The bodice fronts are also cut quite wide (half of a 45" panel for each front bodice piece) and the excess width is pleated into the shoulder to create fullness over the bosom and into the skirts. The white cotton lining, however, is cut without the extra width and is cut to end at the waistline. I turned up a narrow casing at the bottom of each front lining for a drawstring to adjust the fit at the waist. Any extra fullness on the drawstring comes only from what would in an ordinary dress be darted, so there will not be much bulk there.
After sewing the center fronts to the wrapper and stitching the shoulder seam, I decided to try it on to see if the fit was working. So far so good! The pleats need to be pressed and I need to turn and stitch the self facings on the front openings but otherwise, I'm thrilled with it!
I cut the neckline down to a V shape and piped the edge. I want the lining to close seperately from the outer layer so clipped the seam allowance of the lining only a few inches up from the center front edge of the bodice. This clipped area I turned to the inside and hemmed down by hand.

Here's a picture showing the lining and the drawstring to adjust the waist. From what I've read, it was more common to have the lining fitted with darts but I chose to use a drawstring for a few reasons. 1. This will not be worn with a corset. I don't know about you ladies, but my body certainly is NOT the same from day to day. Especially during "that time of month" and some days my clothing fits tighter or looser than others. I don't want a closely fitted darted lining if some days I need to let things out a little. Especially when its hot. 2. The drawstring will be very handy if, Lord willing, we are ever expecting again. If that happens, I can even leave the lining unfastened on the inside to allow for belly expansion and use the drawstring to tie the lining shut at the waistline over the bump.

Now I need to work on the sleeves and the skirt hem. . .I should definitely be finished before next weekend! I can't wait to wear it!

Love,
Sarah