Long Regency Stays - Progress

So, long regency stays are one type of corset I have never done before. I've made several variations of short stays and I used the Mantua Maker regency corset pattern to make 1820's/1830's stays (see two posts below) but this is my first, real, long regency corset.

I don't know why I have been so afraid of making long stays. The cording always looked so time consuming and the style looked very critically fitted in order to perfectly get that "lift and seperate" look. Well, I washed my fabric two days ago and cut out the stays yesterday and guess what. It's not that hard.

I used the Mantua Maker pattern, the version I fitted to myself last fall. I had to take the pattern in one inch all the way around and then four inches more at the hips. I also shortened the bust gussets by one inch.

The pieces were easy to sew together. I've done corsets before, and that is no problem. The cording was different, for me. I have never really corded a corset before. I opted for cording only on the front panel and running down the side of the front hip gusset. I thought about putting more cording in the back panel, but decided it wasn't really necessary at this point. I used a blue marking pencil to pencil my cording lines - all straight, for ease of sewing - and sewed the channels and then threaded the cotton cord through with a bobby pin. I will have bones at the back opening, on either side of the lacing eyelets, and also one bone at each side panel. That's it - the wooden busk will do the rest. I personally think the cording is more for decorative reasons that true support, to be honest.

I've put about five hours of work into the stays so far. All that is left is working the eyelets and binding the thing - really - that's it! I was thinking this would take me at least a few weeks to complete and am shocked to realize that I will most likely have it finished this weekend. I suppose it would take me longer if I were hand sewing the whole thing, but I am sticking to my usual historic-clothing-construction philosophy: If it will be Seen, do it by hand. If it's on the inside, don't worry about using a straight machine stitch, for Pete's sake! ;)

I'm really hoping The Cut of Men's Clothes comes in to the library soon. I think I will be ready to start on David's regency things before too long!

Love,
Sarah

Regency Stays Experts - Opinions and Advice Please!

With my thoughts turned towards the Jane Austen Festival this summer, I have been trying to decide what gowns to make and, therefore, what undergarments I will need to make first, since I'm not really pleased with my 1790's short stays anymore (the ones with the gathered cups) because, #1, they are starting to become too large for me, which is uncomfortable as it makes the shift rub against my skin and #2, they do not provide as nice a line as I might wish. I was once a C cup. I hope to be one again. In the meantime, I don't need to be wearing something that makes me look twenty pounds heavier on top. The stays I have been using push the bosom together making a "mono bosom" look. It's really not that flattering to me, I am afraid.

I got some fabric for new stays. I have the Mantua Maker regency stays pattern and last year I made it, with a few modifications, for late 1820's/1830's wear. I made my own gussets and did not use the ones included in the pattern. I also made a more nipped in waistline instead of going with the more tubular shape often seen in true regency corsets.

I want to start work on my stays soon. Today I pulled out the stays I made last year from the Mantua Maker pattern and tried them on to see what adjustments I will have to make for a more regency silhouette. I know I'll have to make them much smaller around my hips (so far, all the weight loss seems to be coming from my hips and bust! It would be nice to loose some from the waist too! But I'll take what I can get!) but I would like experts opinions on the bust area of the stays. Is it high enough? I tried on my new regency dress with the stays and I really like how it looks with these stays a lot better than with the 1790's stays. These stays incorporate the use of a busk, which really helps with support and gives the bosom the characteristic "lift and seperate" look.

I know the regency bustline was really high and kind of "shelf" like. These stays don't really give a "shelf" appearance, but they do lift the bustline pretty high; in fact, I don't physically think I could lift it any higher. So, should I stick with these size gussets? Or is there a way I can modify the gussets to give more of a shelf appearance?

Another problem that you can see is that, due to the cut of the bodice, you can clearly see the top of the stays in the middle of the bodice. :( Any suggestions on how I could fix that problem? A brooch? Lace along the bodice edge?

So if these stays will work. . .all I will need to do is use the same pattern I used for these and make the hips a tad smaller. It would be a lot less work than going through the inconvenience of making mock ups of gussets and such! :P

This is all very new to me so please jump in with your advice and opinions!

Sarah

The Nancy Drew 1940's Dress!

The past few weeks I've been re reading the Nancy Drew books I adored as a child. I haven't read them for years but my mom was getting rid of a big pile of books and asked me if I'd like to go through them before she did. I snagged some Nancy Drew books, Hardy Boy books and some Boxcar Children books, for good measure. (Yes, I loved mysteries as a child. Still do.)

So, when I realized I had a wedding coming up and had nothing to wear, I was inspired by the adventurous, courageous, intelligent young ladies in the Nancy Drew books who, no matter what kind of situation they found themselves in, were always feminine and charming and properly attired. No man suits or t shirts and jeans for these women, people! They piloted airplanes, rode horseback, explored underground caves and tunnels and haunted houses and deciphered codes, all while being decidedly feminine.

In my previous post I shared the vintage 1940's pattern I was inspired by. I finally finished the dress today and am really happy with how it came out. I was really afraid of the fabric being too plain and ugly to wear to a wedding, but now I'm having second thoughts. I did buy a modern outfit to wear in case this one didn't work out so I'm not sure yet which one I will end up using. Ladies, your opinions and advice is needed! Would you wear something like this to a wedding? For comparison purposes, the modern outfit is an ankle-length black pig suede A line skirt, very flared and twirly, and a silky black and pink floral blouse with a V neck and flutter sleeves and a handkerchief hem, with black leather dress boots.

Since becoming interested in the 40's I've been looking around for red lipstick. I don't usually wear make up (well, besides clear powder and chap stick) but red lipstick is kinda a 40's thing, you know. Like the hoop skirt in the 1860's. It's the sign of the times. So, I've found it really hard to find a basic, red lipstick. There are so many options available it seems. I have a few different shades now and the one I like best is called British Red, but it still is a bit orangey, it seems. So I'm still on the hunt for The Perfect Red Lipstick.

David usually is not that interested in my attempts at historic recreations but he did like this one. He seems to like the vintage styles I've toyed with better than, say, the regency or Romantic period. He told me that it looks "like something Susan would have worn before she came to Narnia." From him, that is definitely a compliment worth having.

I still need to figure out a better hair style. My hair was NOT cooperative today! It must be the changing weather. All our snow from a few weeks ago is nearly gone and today it is supposed to get above *60* degrees!!! Spring is on the way!

Love,
Sarah

Inspired by the 1940's. . .

I've been thinking a lot about summer dresses lately. Maybe it's because I am really getting tired of seeing the old, tired snow outside and maybe it's because I'm excited about the prospect of visiting my grandfather in the East this summer and want to be appropriately attired for such pleasures as beach-walking and historic-site-touring. Whatever the case may be, I've been encouraging my interest in vintage styles because 1) I have come to realize that, much as I may adore Victorian and other similarly "outdated" styles, I hardly ever wear them once I have made them because I don't like being stared at and 2) vintage styles from the 30's and 40's usually take much less fabric than Victorian styles and are cooler to wear, easier to care for and sew up quickly.

I came across this lovely pattern and decided I loved the style. I draped a pattern last week and started work on a dress right away. I used a mystery fabric I got from the thrift shop; I believe it to be a linen/cotton blend based on how it feels but it may be pure cotton. I am almost done with it and since this first dress is rather plain and severe, will be making another one in a prettier print with a more swirly skirt. For my version, I shortened the skirt to just below the knee as that seems a standard 40's length for daywear and changed the neckline to a V (more flattering to me) and put sleeves on it. I love the little gathered straps on the original pattern though. . .I may have to try that for my vacationing dress!



Finished ~ Green Regency Daydress

Well, 'tis Sunday already and to start off the new week, I had David take some pictures of the green regency gown. Yes, it is finally finished! I am very glad since I was beginning to grow rather tired of seeing it hanging, limp and unfinished, in the sewing room. I have already spoke of its construction so much that there is really not much more to say about it! So here are my attempts at looking like a regency lady. :)

Although I don't wear this style terribly often (okay, hardly ever! I have gone back to wearing modern clothes all the time) I do plan on making another regency gown for Easter. My dear friend Lauren from The Lady of Portland House has given me some fabulous ideas for a sheer white striped cotton fabric I have and yesterday David bought me several yards of a pretty blue cotton print that will become a half-robe to wear over the white round gown. To add more excitement to the mix, we are also tentatively planning on attending the Jane Austen festival in Louisville, KY this summer. David has to submit his list for requested weekends off at work this week, so hopefully he will be able to get the time off that we will need! So if we DO go to that, I will have an excuse to make a regency ball gown with the leftover fabric from my 1860's ballgown. So, ah yes, there does seem to be a theme for my future sewing plans.

Have a wonderful week my dears!

Love,
Sarah

Green Regency Daydress; Progress!

It is hard to be sure when one will actually start a project, if you are like me. I tend to spend much more time researching, planning and imagining the finished product than I do actually cutting and fitting and sewing the pieces. However, inspiration struck yesterday so I cut out and started sewing the bodice of my new regency dress.

I was going to make a basic drawstring Elegant Lady's Closet dress but decided that I already have three of those and it would be too redundant to make another. It is a lovely pattern, but I wanted to try something new. Something different. Something that could still be adjustable for weight loss but look right.

I found an ideal style in Costume in Detail. I really love this design! It seems almost fan-frontish (which I have been really loving lately) and has a small crossover detail at the center front, which I also love. The back closes with a button at the neck and a drawstring at the waist. The gathers make it perfect for a hide-the-figure weight loss style and will be ideal with a drawstring waist.

I used my basic 1860's bodice as a starting point and made a mock up. I chopped off the dropped arms and made the armhole fit around the actual shoulder. I shortened the bodice to exactly the bottom of the bosom. I wanted to make this dress to wear with modern undies (a sportsbra) but it just looked really bad, so I ended up fitting the bodice over my 1790's transitional stays I made last year. I have not worn those stays since, probably, I made them but to my surprise they fit me even better than they did last year and gave just the right shape and "lift" to the bust. I am very happy with how it looks! I cut a diaganol line from the neckline at the shoulder to the center front bottom edge of the bodice to make the right neckline shape. I cut the lining from this. For the bodice fronts, I slashed and spread the lining pattern to give width to it. Then it was gathered down at the shoulders and at the "waist" to match the lining. Voila!

So far I have made the bodice and sleeves and am now meditating on the skirt. I want it pretty flat in front (to avoid looking pregnant) but so far I have not cut it out.

The bodice fits *almost* exactly around my underbust. It is a teensy bit big and the waistline drawstring will snug it up to a perfect fit. At least, that is the plan. :)

Maybe I will get out the straw hat brim I've been hoarding and make a bonnet to go with this.

Love,
Sarah

A Medieval 12th Night

Despite a stomach bug which, all last week, ran its course through each member of our little family, we all were over it by Saturday evening and were able to go to the 12th Night party held for our SCA barony. It was a  lot of fun; in fact, I can't remember when I've had such a good time!

I can't help comparing SCA events to Civil War events. I honestly can't help it. Civil War reenacting has been a aprt of my life since I was around twelve years old. The past few years I've been disillusioned with reenacting, gaining a bit of excitement for it from time to time but mostly oh, so tired of it. The SCA is very different and in many ways  I like it a lot better. There is a family atmosphere; a jolly comraderie, an air of expectancy to have a good time. I don't feel like I'm being judged based on what kind of clothing I wear or how much I have researched it or what kinds of fabrics I've used to make it. In our reenacting world, oftentimes ones acceptance into a social circle is based purely on appearance. I can understand that, since I've been on that side of the fence. I know how disillusioning it is to put hard work into a researched outfit only to have everyone else show up in quasi-"old-fashoined" attire. But you know what? Most of my recent enjoyment at events has been from meeting other people, who wouldn't necessarily be considered ultra authentic but who have been some of the sweetest, most down to earth and enjoyable people I've met. I detest the snobbish attitude of some of the more authentic women cliques that we have around here at CW events. Those who snub and spurn or ignore others who they consider "below" them. . .now, I cannot say if this attitude it conscious since a lot of these ladies seem to be genuinely nice people, but it is how they come across purely from an observational point of view.

So anyway, the SCA is a refreshing change from all that. I feel that I can be myself and do not have to try to be something else, to please the standards of others. I have my own personal standards and you know what? That is all I need. That is really all I care about. Other people have standards that work for them. And everything is awesome that way.

I got a few more clothing items made for us so we at least were more fully dressed than our last event.  I got Davids over tunic made and made him and the boys hoods. I'm sorry the picture of David is so washed out but I think our camera needs to be replaced soon and this was the only picture I had of his full length outfit where he was not making a strange and horrific face. ;P

Our friend Peter came with us to 12th Night. What would we do without Peter's company, pray?! He is very dearly beloved of the boys  and a very old friend of mine - one of the very few male friends I had prior to my marriage that still continued to be my friend after my marriage - even writing hand written letters to keep in contact with me and David during times we did not have the internet or, in our early days of wedded life, even a phone. Peter has been taking fencing classes at college and I think he is very interested in joining our group. Now that he has been lured in, time to make him some proper clothes!

In a few weeks we'll be going to our first big event. In the meantime, the Christmas season seems to be truly over now and I still have my Christmas tree up! I think today I will tackle taking down the decorations and putting everything back into it's usual place, make some tea  and start school again with the little boys. We have had a few week break and they are eager to get back into their regular schedule. And for some illogical reason, I have a great desire to make a fan front dress in an early 1850's style. So we'll see where that desire leads. :) I feel like I need a REASON to make one, but the only truthful reason I have is . .. that I want to!

Have a wonderful week,
Love,

Sarah

The Sideless Surcote

I finished my surcote today and now, with a few accessories I still need to make, I will finally feel "fully dressed" for the 14th century.

The sideless surcote was worn with fitted kirtles/underdress and though at first glance it may strike you as dowdy and plain, once on a female form this is a *very* feminine style. During the few months I've been researching this kind of cote I have run across several contemporary descriptions that indicate that, in the 14th century, this was rather a revealing garment to wear. I don't know if the phrase "gates of hell" is authenticated (but it certainly often turns up when reading about this garment) but it creates an interesting mental picture of the way the curves of a woman, revealed through the cut away sides of this cote, may tempt a man into sin. Honestly, clothing and the inevitable people who complain about what they perceive as immodest styles have not really changed *at all* over the centuries!

Well ladies, if you have curves you might as well show them off. This is one period where being curvy is a good thing. :)

My surcote is made in a dark gray wool. I only had 3 yards of it but it was more than enough for this style. The construction and cut is really very simple and the drape and cut away armholes is what makes this garment stand out. The colors are a bit drab; in contemporary art brighter colors are often depicted. But, it is what I had and is what I used. Maybe my next outfit willl utilize some more cheerful colors.

I based the cut on the sideless surcote in The Medieval Tailors Assistant. I didn't follow the diagram exactly since the way it was cut would have created more width across the torso. I wanted it fairly straight to the hips, where it flares out with the use of four triangular gores to a full hem. A website that was helpful was this one: The Sideless Surcote Another helpful site was this one: Sideless Surcotes.

I apologize in advance for any typos. Our computer is kind of working, but the monitor is still very, very difficult to read.

Love,
Sarah

I Finished My Coat!

After lunch today, the boys decided to all three nap at once in the living room. Judah was the last to succumb to sleepiness and his little yellow head with his bright blue eyes peered silently at me as I sat on the couch opposite him and stitched away at six buttonholes to finish up my winter coat. The white lights on the Christmas tree sparkled, Malachi sighed in his sleep and shifted position. David was curled up next to me in a corner of the couch, a pillow on his legs for a blanket.

I battled with silk buttonhole twist, wax, and a very shifty area of moleskin and fleece. But, at last, it was done. My coat is finished! Yay! And just in time. Tomorrow we are supposed to get our first substantial snowfall of the year. And I will be ready for it! Hmm. I must make some peanut butter blossoms later this afternoon so we will have something nice and homey and chocolatey and peanut-buttery to eat while the snow flies outside.

I'm really rather happy with how my coat came out! David says it reminds him of an 1860's generals frock coat, reenactor-style. Reenactor style because the cuffs and collars are black velvet, while military regs of the 60's called for dark blue velvet. But most renactors just use black.

I was very bad this week and started a new sewing project before I got this one finished. I know! But it was an impulse thing. Here is a sneak peek of it; a 1930's/1940's style silky print blouse. I'm not much of a blouse person and I'm not very experienced at making blouses but I thought I'd give the pattern a whirl and I had the perfect fabric on hand to try it out in. (Thanks Jackie!!) It needs buttons and a hem and I need to sew the tucks down at the waist.

Have a great weekend everybody!
Love,
Sarah

Tis the Season to Stay Warm

Warm weather stayed for a long time this fall, but cold temperatures are inevitable - especially here in Illinois. We were blessed with a long and beautiful Indian summer but last week the month finally remembered it was November and the skies became overcast, the wind picked up and gray flimsy clouds scudded quickly overhead. Precipitation came - some hard icy bits of snow, freezing rain and plain rain.

Thanksgiving weekend was fun for David and I. We rarely get to go out by ourselves and my mother in law came over on Friday afternoon to watch the boys while David and I went to the Yule Ball and she stayed the night so as to watch them again on Saturday when we went Christmas shopping. While we were out, I realized I needed a coat. I have had many coats over the years but currently have a 7-year old denim coat lined with fleece - an old favorite, much worn - and a cream colored fleece coat that zips up the front. I love my denim coat but the fact that it is getting dingy is getting harder and harder to ignore. The cream coat is rather fashionable but it is absolutely not flattering on me and it is rather not warm. . .being made of a single layer of fleece, smooth on the outside and “fleecy” looking on the inside.

Some modern coats are hideous and some are actually pretty cute, but it always seems the cute ones are more than I want to spend. I have had good luck finding like-new things at thrift stores so we stopped at our favorite one on Saturday and I browsed their coat rack. There was a cute green one in my size, but it was way too long waisted. David pulled out a substantial snuff-colored woolen one, straight of the 70’s. . .it definitely looked warm but it was too hideous to wear, even for me. There was a 1980’s styled long black leather coat, embossed all over. It was actually tempting. . .but $17 for a used coat? I left the store feeling a little depressed and as we walked into Wal Mart, our last stop before going home, I shivered and pulled my coat tighter around me. Then I had a brilliant idea. I remembered 5 yards of a dark royal blue sueded moleskin I have been hoarding the past few months. I had no idea what to make with it. . .until then. I knew it was destined to become my new winter coat.

Wal Mart coughed up a few yards of black fleecy fabric for the body lining. . .it was ugly with a flashy zebra print on the right side, but the inside was perfectly good. From my stash I pulled some worsted wool scraps for the sleeve interlinings and cut up a dark red satin sheet for the sleeve lining. Black velvet bits cut from a pre-baby Laura Ashley dress was set aside to be lapels, the collar and cuffs.

I had a few ideas for the design but in the end went with what I knew was best for my needs. It had to be long enough to reach my boot tops. It had to have some feminine shape to it, darn it! I hate ugly coats that are all up and down angles and make one look like a stuffed sausage. It had to have fairly classic styling. I debated making a “real” historic style but tossed the idea. I always make historic things and then rarely wear them. . .this coat can go with modern or historic clothes and still look normal.

I settled on a princess style coat with a double breasted front closure, for extra warmth, with skirts flaring gently from a slightly fitted waist. The sleeves are plain and long. It is very basic, but, I hope, will be very serviceable for many years.

I have been working on it this week, more from necessity than from desire. I am really burned out on sewing right now but I really do need this coat. It is currently about 75% done. I need to hand stitch the lining to the armholes to finish the seams there, even out and make the hem and make buttons and buttonholes for the double breasted closure. I may make some pockets for the front - just welt pockets with a black velvet tab - but I don’t know for sure yet. I should. I use pockets as I rarely like to carry a purse. I need to decide before I do the hem, or else I won’t be able to access the outer layer separately and putting in the pockets will be hard and awkward.

It is hard to believe it is December 1st today! Where has the year gone?! We set up our Christmas tree over the weekend and I made my first batch of Christmas cookies. I want to savor every moment of this Christmas season instead of waking up in a few weeks and realizing “Oh my! Christmas is in three days!” We went to the Festival of Lights parade on Saturday night and the boys enjoyed seeing the huge lighted figures drive by. A very perfect way to kick off the Christmas season, I think. :)

Stay warm! Happiness to all!

Love,

Sarah