1910's Foundation Garments

Well, I didn't get my chemise or drawers made, but I did at least finish my corset and brassiere for Challenge #1 of the Historical Sew Fortnightly. And since I originally intended to just make a corset, I figure I met my goal. (even though I really wanted to make an actual dress or blouse/skirt outfit! But that will be made. In time.) 

Since you all have seen pictures of the corset I will not burden you with additional ones. Here is the finished brassiere. 

It is made of two layers of white linen and is topstitched on the seams. The bones are inserted between the layers of fabric and the brassiere is boned at sides, front princess seams (up to the fullest point of the bust) and down the center front. 

I found a bit of lace in my stash that seemed suitable to trim the neckline with. I did not have enough to go around the whole neckline but I had enough to at least do the front neckline. 

I sewed this mostly by machine. It's so nice to be able to use the machine and not feel guilty about doing so. The only bit of handwork I did was some binding finishing and I hand sewed the hook and eyes to the front opening. 

For these pictures I am wearing my regency chemise, since I did not have time to make a period 1910's style one, and an antique petticoat that was given to me by the lovely Natalie of A Frolic Through Time. 

The petticoat is exactly the right size for me and I have taken a pattern off it (it is a 5 gore style with a subtle flounce) to make a repro petticoat to wear for the final outfit. I still have to make drawers. 

Here you can see how the foundation layer looks with a dress on over top. I made this white dress over five years ago from the Sense and Sensibility 1914 Afternoon Dress pattern. I do not often wear this dress as I have felt it is not very flattering but it does look better when worn with the proper underpinnings. 

So that is that! The next challenge is due in two weeks time and is for a UFO (an unfinished sewing project) so I think I will finally finishing David's plaid wool fall front trousers. . .they have been *so* close to being done for *so long* (needing only hemming and buttons at the moment) but I have procrastinated. I will get those done!

Love,

Sarah

The Challenge: Something from a year ending in "13". (So, this could have been worn in 1913)

Fabric: White linen for both corset and brassiere. Corset is lined with white cotton duck. 

Pattern: Corset is from the 1911 corset in Corsets and Crinolines by Nora Waugh. The brassiere pattern was draped using originals for inspiration. 

Year: 1913-ish

Notions: I used zip ties for boning, brass grommets for the corset and hook and eyes for the brassiere. I used a steel busk for the corset. 

How historically accurate is it? I hope it is fairly accurate. The corset is taken from an original so I think it is accurate in cut. In materials, it is possibly accurate (although coutil was usually used). In construction, I am fairly sure I used an atypical method (I used an 1860s method of construction) but it was a compromise I didn't mind as this is just a "for fun" outfit. 

Hours to complete: I don't really know. . .I worked on these fairly steadily for two weeks. Maybe 1-2 hrs per day? Probably 25-30 hours. 

First worn: Not yet, except for try-on. 

Total cost:

More 1910's Bra Mock Up

Thanks for your encouraging words and advice on my last post! After reading several comments, I did give the chemise and corset combination a go. Now granted, I have not made a period style chemise yet (which to me look to be mostly sleeveless with either a neckline drawstring or a yoke giving fullness over the chest) but my regency chemise has a similar drawstring neckline, although it does have sleeves.

I am glad I did try it, but I don't really want to share pics of what it looked like. I have been (probably over) thinking this issue and I think this is why I really need a 1910's style bra to go with my corset: (image below from Corsetrasewing)

This is from 1912 - I love how it shows a good level of support for a rather "motherly" type figure!

1. I made my corset a little high in the waist, I think. The top edge of the corset hits right below my bust. Right where the bottom edge of my gussets are on my regency stays.

2. I have a very short waist for my figure.

3. My currently-being-nursed girls are excelling in the sag and droop department. This wouldn't be so much of a problem if I was a smaller cup size, but they are, well, to risk sounding indelicate, heavy. 

4. With my corset on the the chemise tightly pulled down over the bosom, it works for a time to keep the bosom rather "bound" to the torso. But when I have to nurse, I have to loosen the drawstring and then its fairly complicated to "rebind" the bosom when I am done nursing. In this case, a bra that can be unhooked and then rehooked is easier to deal with. Otherwise, I'd have to pull my chemise down once more firmly under the corset.

This was an interesting article about brassieres being recommended for women with larger bustlines: 1908-1910 Brassiere. The image below is from another interesting post about the styles of Edwardian corsets.

I made one more mock up of my brassiere. I shortened it a bit and I had to shorten the straps as well. I decided to raise the neckline of it a tad to give it more a V shape than the sweetheart shape it was before. I tried it on and here you can see how it looks when worn in combination with the corset. I am pretty happy with the overall shape, as the overall shape is what will give the finished outfit its distinctive silhouette.

Most of the brassieres I have been able to see look to be boned or are described as being boned. I plan to make my own brassiere out of stuff I already have on hand (since this is not a period we really "do", and this outfit will be just for fun and for modern wear, I am trying to just use up scraps from my stash instead of having to buy new fabric). I am trying to decide if I want to make it a double layer brassiere with the bones inserted between the layers or single layer with the boning slid into fabric casings. I think a single layer would be more period correct but a double layer would be easier to do. (I made my corset double layer even though the original the pattern was taken from is single layer). So, I'm still undecided.

I hope to get the real thing made today. It should be a fairly quick, simple sewing job. Tomorrow I'm going to hit up some local thrift stores and see if I can find a cotton sheet to make a chemise and some drawers from.

Love,
Sarah

A 1910's Bra or Bust Bodice

It's been almost a week since my last post, and alas, I have been silent. I have actually been silently working on my 1910's corset and I failed to blog about the process of making it. I just. . .made it. I wish I had blogged about it because I don't really remember what I did, except that the pattern I planned to use (Jen Thompsons gorgeous pattern taken from an original) did not work out well for me or my figure so I ended up draping a pattern instead and I used the 1911 corset from Corsets and Crinolines as a guide for the shape of the pattern pieces. 

And it's done. It fits. I like it. 

But the problem with this style of corset is, obviously, bust support. Namely, there is no bust support. I definitely need support. So I have been trying to figure out just what women of this era did when they had bosoms. Because, obviously, not everyone had the slim, slender, slight figure that was in fashion then. And I am not just going to let myself flip and flop in careless abandon over the top edge of my corset. 

I was just wearing a modern dress under this, so had to crop the un-flattering, un-supported bosom part out. But you can see how the corset fits and smooths the figure. 

I discovered that bras were worn with corsets like these. I have come across quite a few photographs of original brassieres from this era and they look strikingly similar to some modern bras. It makes no sense to me to wear BOTH a bra AND a corset (why not just combine the two and have just 1 supportive undergarment instead?) but fashion does not always follow common sense. 

This is from earlier than the 'teens but wow - it really looks no different than a modern  bra!

It seems some bras were combined with corset covers and some were worn plain, with a corset cover on top. I am still trying to learn if bras were ever worn under the corset and chemise like a modern bra but it seems that sources would indicate they are worn on top of the chemise and the corset and may fasten to the corset to keep itself in place, as shown here in this advertisement from Lady Carolyn's interesting blog post: 

In passing, underwear of this era is really very frustrating and complicated. At least to someone coming from the early Victorian era, where a chemise, corset, drawers and petticoats were all that was needed to create a fashionable silhouette. 

After looking at a number of styles of brassieres, I decided I liked the look of this one: 

It is similar to the free pattern for a 1910's brassiere Jenni has graciously shared with us at Historically Dressed. 

I draped a bodice today that is meant to give a similar look. It is cut with princess seams since for me it is easier to get a smoother fit when using princess seams instead of darts. It is cut with the straps cut as part of the bodice instead of separately. It is fitted to my natural waist but I think for my final brassiere I will shorten the waistline a tad. The waistline of my corset hits me at about rib level so it is a little high waisted so as to give the fashionable smooth-hip look. 

I just don't know how much support is needed. Do I go for a medieval-style, bust-popping level of support or just a gentle, natural, slightly lifted support? The support of the current mock up is somewhere in the middle. It lifts the bosom up so it is above the rib-cage waistline of the corset but it is not so high as to be screaming "hey! look at meeeeeee!!"

This advertisement from Vintage Ad Browser seems to support the idea of having a moderate level of bust support although it is from the late 'teens. I like that it shows a real woman wearing a bra and corset instead of a drawn illustration. 

So, we'll see what comes of experimentation. There are so many freaking undergarments in this period. My gosh. I don't know if or when I will ever get to the shirtwaist and skirt I really want from this period!

Love,

Sarah

Becky's Corset

Firstly, thank you all so much for your sweet words of congratulations about our little Anne-girl. It is still incredibly hard for me to believe that we are actually having a girl. I have had some very sweet years with my little men folk and had sort of mentally resigned myself to the fact I would be a mother of boys. And now! God unexpectedly drops the blessing of a daughter in our laps. Our plans are certainly not His plans; our ways not His ways. Everyone in our family is so very excited. Actually, the day after we had the sonogram my mom called me. It had not yet been 24 hours and she had already purchased some little gowns for the baby, along with some tiny pink onesies and little pink knit pants. I think she is somewhat excited. ;) Aren't they adorable?!

I picked up some lovely sheer white cotton eyelet over the weekend (okay, it's actually a really huge, really gorgeous curtain I got for $2 at the thrift store) to make into a long gown for the baby. After the sewing I need to get done for our 1860's event next month I hope to spend some time making her some little simple gowns and caps, along with a whole mountain of linen diapers and wool soakers. . .am I really going to have enough time to get this all done before she arrives? It seems each pregnancy goes by so much faster than the previous ones. And can I just say how much more fun it is to BE pregnant with three little boys who are old enough to realize what is going on?

When Malachi was born David and Judah were ages 2 and 1 - really still babies themselves - and they didn't really get excited about him. This time around all three of them eagerly measure my belly with their hands, talk into my stomach, giggle and squeal when they feel the baby kick.

They ask hundreds of questions about the baby (exactly what do you tell them when they ask "how did the baby get in there, Mommy?! I have told them the truth but with as little specific information as will satisfy them so far - "God gives the baby to a mommy and a daddy. It is like planting the garden. The daddy plants his baby seed in Mommy, where the baby grows until it is big enough to be born.") and constantly ask me how much longer it will be until the baby is ready to "come out". David wants to know why we aren't having two babies. He can't fathom why a mommy would have TWO "udders" (um, yeah, that's what he calls them) and only have ONE baby. He was very disappointed to learn we will only have one baby this time. Apparently he had made his own little plans for a boy and a girl.

Anyway, so far this week I have finished Becky's corset. I made her chemises last week, so we are making good progress on her undies. Corsets really are so relaxing to sew. It's so fun to see how some simple materials transform into a sturdy, fitted undergarment that molds and supports the body into a period shape. I always love observing that transformation. I know, I'm weird. :) But really I do love making corsets.

Binding, topstitching and bones that won't break,

A steel busk to fasten the corset we make,

Eyelets - all twenty - and long lacing strings,

These are a few of my favorite things!

Love,
Sarah

Gray Linen 1860's Corset - Finished!

The new 1860's corset is finished. Almost, that is. I want to add some reinforcement stitching on the outside of the corset at the points of the gussets, but I can do that whenever. For bodice fitting purposes, at least, the corset is wearable.

I like it - it's comfortable - but it definitely is giving a different shape than my last corset. More - what shall we say - choppy? There's the waist. Then POUF! - there's the bust! And POUF! - there's the hips! It will take some getting used to. I hope it works with my old dresses. I haven't tried one on yet to know for sure, but I *really* hope I don't have to sit down and do alterations to all my dresses. . .I detest alterations!

On to happy fitting days ahead, and progress on the Gray Silk Ballgown. :) Oh, and sorry for the medieval shift making yet another appearance in an era it does not belong in, but I need to make new 1860's chemises as the yoked ones I have do NOT work with this corset. So, for now, it will suffice.  

Sarah

A New Style of Corset - 1860's

The blue twill corset I made last year was worn, literally, to pieces. I managed to make it work for the last Civil War function we attended, last November, but it is really impossible to make it work again. Plus, due to the fact I have lost some weight, and the corset has stretched, has caused there to be almost zero "gap" in the back. Major discomfort.

I debated making a new corset using my beloved Laughing Moon Dore corset pattern, which I have used the past five years. I picked up Simplicity 2890 at a 99 cent pattern sale a few months ago though, and having heard good things about it, decided to try something new.

Simplicity 2890 consists only of two main pieces - a front and a back - and the major shaping for the bust and hips is achieved through the use of eight gussets. This corset was designed by famous corsetiere Kay Gnagney of Originals-by-Kay and she has posted some helpful advice in fitting and making this corset over at The Sewing Academy.

Following her helpful advice, I chose and cut the size I thought would best fit me. One thing I had to take into consideration was the cup size. From what I've read, this Simplicity pattern is designed for an A or B cup. Gusset size is easily changed and very customizable, so I just made my own bust gussets for fit. They ended up shorter and more "petal" shaped than the ones in the pattern. Each persons gussets will be different from someone else's.

Besides the gussets, the only thing I had to change on the pattern was taking in a bit of width from the front hip gusset and taking in the side seam at the top a bit. That's it! I'm used to drastically having to alter patterns to fit me so I was pleasantly suprised to find how good of a fit I got with this pattern right off.

This corset seems so little compared to past ones I have made. There is not much to it. It is short and curvy and the waistlines hits at the bottom rib. My last corset was mildly uncomfortable after hours of wear because it dug into my waist, which I had positioned at the smallest portion of my waist. My lower ribs are wider than my waist, but it is a period placement for the waistline. I could already tell a huge difference between the fit and feel of my last corset and the mock up of this one.

I have my shell all sewn up and am awaiting the boning and busk so I can finish it up. I am trying to make this as inexpensively as possible so the corset is 2 layers of stash fabric. The inner layer is white cotton duck left over from a project last year and the outer layer is gray linen. I know that linen was not commonly used by the time of the American Civil War but I chose the fabric I had that had the least amount of stretch and were the most firmly woven.

After this I have a new ballgown to make before a dance and dinner on April 9th. I hope I can get it all done before then!

Love,
Sarah