1860's Clothes for David

It is with a bit of shame I have gone through our reenacting clothes and have realized how sad a state the boys' wardrobes are in. There was a time, not even that long ago, when I took great pride in the tiny garments I fashioned for them. The boys always looked perfect and their clothes coordinated and David and Judah usually matched. I always received millions of compliments on how cute they looked. But now? They have been "getting by" with less and less the last year and a half or so. They have grown, and the once nicely fitted clothes now make them look like gangly scarecrows. The hand me downs Malachi has received are faded and, although in sound condition, just look worn. It's sad.

I have had to step back a little and reevaluate why I actually participate in 1860's reenactments. I have been very burned out so last year, when we did not do many events at all, was a sort of reflection year for me. It was nice to have that little break. This year we do not plan to do very many 60's events (quality over quantity!) but I do want the boys to be nicely dressed. They don't need tons of outfits but one nice outfit apiece will be sufficient and suitable.

Last October I started button suits for David and Judah. I never actually finished them. So, when we had the opportunity to visit a local historic site for a program celebrating A. Lincoln's birthday, I pulled out the nearly finished blouse and trousers and added the buttons and buttonholes they needed to be complete.

Basic white blouse or bodice. . .buttons to trouser waistband

David told me he wants to wear "big boy" clothes now. After all, he said, he is growing up. And that is true. I  draped and cut out a little vest for him on Sunday and sewed it up in some grey plaid wool he selected from the stash. The vest is lined with black cotton sateen and is, to all appearances, "just like Daddy's", with the exception of the pockets. I did not put any pockets in the little vest.

A little cap, made years ago and rather small now, but still fitting, he put on. I tied a bit of grosgrain ribbon around his collar for a simple tie and he was thrilled with his new outfit! He would not take it off all day and was very careful during meals to not spill any food on his clothes. He pinned a cockade to his vest for the party last evening and to all appearances is very well satisfied with himself. This came as something of a surprise to me, since he usually takes no interest in his clothes whatsoever.

 Judah was very upset that he had to wear a tunic last night. He wants a big boy outfit now, too. Malachi still prefers tunics. He very matter-of-factly informed me that it's better that he wears tunics (or even dresses) because he is "still a little boy. I'm not as big as David or Judah." Which is true.

Anne is well supplied with all of Malachi's old baby clothes. . .they still look quite new, for the most part, so I do not feel very guilty putting her in old things. Here she is with David:

And by herself, with her Christmas dolly. (no, I haven't put fasteners on the doll dress yet - I am so afraid she will chew off hook and eyes or buttons! I may deviate from historical accuracy and just put some velcro on there, at least temporarily).

Love,
Sarah

Anne's 1860's Sacque

It only took a few hours to make and fits her so much better than Malachi's old coat.

She does look somewhat like a mini-Confederate soldier in her butternut and blue but we can just say that her coat is "military influenced". Which was, after all, fashionable and patriotic in the 1860's. We can conveniently ignore the fact that her daddy does a Federal impression. Or we could just say that this was really all that her mama had in the stash that could work and the similarity to Confederate military coats is just an unfortunate coincidence. Which is true.

These types of coats are really so ridiculously easy to make. Only 5 pieces - two fronts, one back, two sleeves - and they can be whipped up in under an hour.

For this one I quilted the lining and sewed it right sides together with the outer wool shell around the fronts and bottom. Turn, press and bind the neckline edge. Set in the sleeves. Add some sort of closure and that's it!

Actually, for these style coats, a closure isn't even always necessary. For hers I covered a few buttons and made it close to the waist. A simple band of trim around the edges finished it off. Under 2 hours. Handsewing and all!

Love,
Sarah

Anne's 1860's Winter Hood

She has hair, but not nearly enough to keep her little head warm during gusty autumnal days. She has a decided prejudice against things that go on her head but for this I have to put my proverbial foot down and tie the strings beneath her chin, though she protesteth loud. 

She will have to put up with a great deal of things she does not like this weekend. Such as socks. And corset-boob. (who wants to suckle when right beneath is coarse and steel-reinforced fabric that thrusts the bosom up and outward into an unnatural and unappetizing position?)

But she will survive. And she will thrive. She will learn the lore of the Dark Side and become assimilated into this fine hobby we call reenacting. Her resistance is futile. 

There's a smile!

So, she will wear the hood I made for her. This is definitely the tiniest hood I have ever made. It is an uber-small version of the toddler and woman's hood I posted on my pattern blog a few years ago. For this one, I faced the brim with silk and the lining is of a blue and white print cotton. The outer layer is light brown wool. I debated on whether or not to put on silk ties but since she likes to chew whatever her mouth can reach I thought cotton tape ties would work just as well and would not be greatly harmed by gnawing.

Malachi's old woolen coat *could* work for her this weekend. It's roomy but that is okay since underneath we can pile on the layers. I may make a new coat for her though, to match the hood. Blue and brown are nice colors for her.

Love,

Sarah

Mentally Thrashing Out The Boy's Button Suit

The 1860's Boy's Button Suit.

And before I go further, I want to say that the images I have here I pulled from saved files and I honestly have no clue where they originated. I want to give credit where credit is due and don't want to violate any copyright issues, so, if you recognize a photo and have info about whose it is, please let me know!!

So anyway I am revisiting the 1860's boy's button suit. I tried this style three years ago with David and Judah. They were 2 and 3 years old at the time. They looked adorable but there was so much about the button suit to not like. The number of buttonholes! (although I have become more fond of making buttonholes since then). The lack of flexible sizing! (there's only so much bagginess you can put into a suit like this before it looks, well, bad.) The biggest problem was going potty.

This little boy's suit is quite large for him and is probably the Extreme Edge of Bagginess I would attempt at making a suit larger than needed. Any baggier and it would look way too much out of proportion!

In a button suit, the blouse has a fixed waistband. This waistband is buttoned to the waistband of the trousers all around the waist. This creates problems and frustration for little boys who need to use the bathroom and do not like mommy or daddy help when doing so. So, I ditched the button suit. I embraced the Flexible Tunic, which could be created quite large to leave plenty of growing room and could also hide an elastic waistband on the trousers so the boys could easily go potty by themselves.

But after 3 years of making tunics I have become bored with them. And I don't want to feel like I just gave up on the button suit without making it work somehow. So I'm revisiting them and am in the middle of making David and Judah each a new button suit for the always-cold and October-y Civil War reenactment we will be going to next Saturday.

The most helpful piece of information I have discovered during the last 3 years, concerning button-suits, is that some trousers in suits like these had a convenience slit in the front. I am not sure how that slit was created (is is *just* a slit in the center front crotch seam?) but I will be adding them to the trousers I'm making for my boys. For these, I will go with a normal fly opening that is sewn to the waistband at the top. I don't think I will make the fly button shut but it at least will have the nice overlapping bit that a normal fly has to avoid accidental exposure of things best left unseen. So that will take care of most of our potty issues. They will still need help, I think, if they have to completely remove their trousers but the need for that should be relatively rare compared to the need for the nice convenience slit.

To finish off the button suit I will be making waistcoats and jackets to go over the blouse. The waistcoat will be just like a man's waistcoat and will help add warmth (definitely go with more lightweight layers when it gets cold instead of one bulky, heavy garment!) and the jacket will go over all. I first planned to make a notched collar for the jackets but the more I look at images the more I see the type of jacket that buttons all the way up to the neck. It appears that this type of jacket has no collar or perhaps a very small standing band collar, and then the collar of the shirt beneath is folded out over the top of the coat neckline. I really like this look and it seems it would be warmer than a notched collar style since the entire neck and chest area will be covered.

Then, if it's *really* cold, they can wear their wool sack-style coats from last year over everything as a sort of overcoat. But hopefully it won't be that cold. I don't like cold events.

This is the look I'm going for.

It's going to be inconvenient to bring a nursing infant out anyway. I keep imagining the awkwardness of trying to unbutton my coat and push it out of the way, unfastening a dress bodice, undoing the neckline of a chemise and fiddling around to get the nursing apparatus out, all while, probably, trying to "cover up" beneath a lightweight shawl or blanket, with the baby, heavily bundled herself in a wool coat and hood and wrapped in a woolen shawl, squirms and complains about being covered up (she hates having anything over her head). . . just thinking of all that almost makes me want to stay home instead of going to the event!

This woman looks strong, confident and not ashamed of breastfeeding WITHOUT covering up! Woo-ha! She's
SO. Awesome. I love her.

But if they did it in the 1860's, we can do it too. I just keep having to tell myself that to motivate me to try. Like I said, I hate giving up on something without making it work somehow! Photo below from Breastfeeding Art.

Add caption

Lots of sewing to do!

Love,
Sarah

Civil War Gown for Lydia

Just when you think you can't take anymore of certain time period/ project, a new one pops up to refresh and renew you. Isn't it awesome how that works out? I was terribly weary of making adult 1860's clothes and when a reenacting gentleman of our acquaintance brought up the possibility of me making a dress for his daughter, I was more than happy to leap at the opportunity.

It was a quick little project to work up, but nonetheless fun. We did a quickie pattern drape last week and Lydia went through original images with me to pick out a style she liked. We decided to go for this style, but with a front opening to allow her to dress herself:

I didn't have much time to make a lot of undergarments, but I did get a chemise made (chemises are absolutely necessary!!)

And a bodiced petticoat. The petticoat likewise buttons in the front, same as the dress, to allow Lydia ease in dressing herself. The straps button the bodice so the button can be moved to make the straps longer as she grows taller. The tucks are mainly for pouf factor but can also be let out to make the skirts longer as she grows.

The dress is of a lightweight plaid cotton. Instead of hook and eyes (which don't work well unless under tension) the opening is secured with china buttons and handworked buttonholes:

The neckline is piped and finished with a removable collar, the same as a woman would have on her dress.

The skirt is gathered by hand. I attempted to do stroked gathers but the pleats would *not* lay all the same way as the fabric is springy. They just boinged back into a soft round pleat instead of laying flat.

Now with this project under my belt I can tackle my May regency costume challenge project - a bodiced petticoat for me! I really need to get cracking on diaper making but honestly, right now, a bodiced petticoat just sounds so much more alluring.

Love,
Sarah

1860's Boys Brimless Cap

So, a month or so ago I was going over the boys wardrobes for this reenacting season. Judah has gone through a large growth spurt and can barely squeeze into the clothes he wore last year, and David is not far behind. Malachi is now the recipient of the Old Tunics. I feel wretchedly guilty for not making Malachi new clothes, too, but really, why should I? I think it is honorable to the memory of our 1860's mothers to hand down clothing items that are clean, sound, and in good repair for a younger child to use. I am going to retrim a few of the nicer ones left from David and Judah and call it good and try to feel better about not making nice new clothes for my baby boy. And besides, Malachi has turned up his freckled, snobby little nose at any of the potential fabrics I have on hand for new tunics. He particularly detests the brown spotty fabric I used for his brothers tunics. I am not going to waste my time making little garments for him when he'd be sure to recite the oft'heard phrase he has been so fond of saying lately. "I'm not wearing that, Mommy. I don't like it."

David was not very interested in going through original images to get ideas for his new tunics, but Judah was. Judah at length decided on this image as one he particularly liked:

While David was away at Shiloh we draped a pattern for a tunic like the one in the image above. We did change a few things about it. We had the tunic open in the front so the boys can dress themselves. We made short sleeves so the tunics will be more comfortable to wear in the heat. I added a little white collar over the small standing band collar. This is what we ended up with: (David's, for the record, is, as usual, identical to Judah's).

None of the old caps would fit Judah. His head is now 22" in circumference! That is the same as mine. And he is four. So, I brainstormed about the best way to make the little tasseled cap seen in the original image. I remember reading before that brimless caps were worn more often by younger boys, instead of brimmed ones, so in the end I went with a basic bag hat with a fitted band around the bottom edge. I cut the outer layer of plaid wool suiting, and the lining of some scrap striped cotton left over from my hooped petti. Here you can see the basic shapes - two U shaped pieces for the top of the cap and a big rectangle for the band.

All sewn together! I fringed out some silk taffeta to make the tassel and braided a cord of silk buttonhole twist and sewed it to the center of the cap. Right now I think the tassel cord needs to be shorter and the tassel could be a bit fuller, but oh well. For a first try it is not too bad! And shortening the cord will be an easy fix.

Because the suiting has a lot of body, the cap didn't "slump" to one side like it appears the original does. It wanted to stand straight up from the head. To remedy that, I pinned and tacked a few pleats at the side of the head to make the cap "slump".

And here's some finished pics of Judah in his new cap!

Love,
Sarah

A Bigger Tunic for Judah

This Sunday I our 1860's medical reenacting unit has been invited to a demonstration at a local historic site. I was asked to give a talk on ladies 1860's fashions - a first for me! - and have been busy getting things together for that. However, one other important thing was a new tunic for Judah. After our last reenactment I was mortified to see how short and skimpy his clothes looked. He has grown a lot over the summer.

The back bodice is pieced about 2" above the waistband, all the way across

The pattern I use for the boys tunics has been one that has morphed into existence from the first little bodice pattern I drafted for David's first baby gown, nearly five years ago:

Little boys DID wear pink! :D

As the boys got bigger, I just added length and width as needed. ;) This week, we sized up the 4T pattern for their tunics into a 5T. To do that, I just had Judah put on his old tunics and marked where he needed width and length added and how much! No rocket science here.

Playing with the wheel on the horse Daddy made him

To test out the new pattern I cut down a thrifted shirt. It was a plain, button up style shirt I got during one of those infamous fill-a-bag-for-$1 sales. Due to the size of the shirt (medium) and the size of Judah, I had to end up piecing some of the tunic. It is pieced in five spots, which makes me feel kind of chintzy and cheap. : / But, it works, he has a tunic, and piecing is a period correct practice!

I used some blue cotton twill tape for simple trim. Judah agreed to pose for a few pictures, although after a few minutes he grew weary of the pursuit.

The waist is a little low, but that is on purpose, as I hope he gets a lot of wear out of this. It seems my boys do a lot more growing lengthwise than widthwise. The sleeves are slightly belled open sleeves that he can wear as is in the summer and with a white undershirt / bodice / waist in the cooler months.

Love,
Sarah

Round #1 - Short Sleeve Tunics

I know I'm posting far more often than usual this week, but, well, blogging in the morning helps give me a break from the sewing I have been rushing to get done. :)

Today I want to share my spur-of-the-moment sewing project from yesterday; tunics for David and Judah.

I made them both long sleeve, loose, roomy tunics earlier this year, intending to have them wear them all season. However, we are off to a reenactment this weekend and the forecast is for thunderstorms and hot temperatures (though all week, the forecasted temp has steadily dropped) and I decided to make them short sleeve tunics. I had an extra day to sew- so why not?

I wanted to make these tunics in plaid, like the image below, but wasn't sure exactly how to go about making a bias plaid tunic so I made these in a printed cotton instead. I tried a new tunic style this time. Instead of my usual A-line tunics, these have seperate bodice and skirt portions sewn to a waistband. I was inspired by the images of this darling little tunic found on eBay last month and posted about over at The Sewing Academy:

I did shorten the sleeves on my tunics some. Of course, my material is not sheer so you cannot see the tucks like you can on the original. Really, the tucks were a waste of time since due to the print of the fabric you cannot even really tell that they are there.

Judah posed for some pictures last night. He is wearing modern shorts beneath the tunic but the tunic skirts cover them so it appears he is wearing nothing beneath! Actually, when David first saw Judah in this tunic he asked me why I had made him a dress!

For some reason Judah reminds me of a Jedi in this picture.

Sarah: "Judah, say "The force be with you."

Judah, proudly: "The fork beneath you!"

The bias tunics are in the works but won't get done for this weekend. Hopefully for the weekend-after-next, though.

Love,

Sarah