Green Plaid 1860's Dress for Winter Quarters

Last week we had the opportunity to attend an event at a local park and I was quite excited about going! However, I was sorely disappointed when I tried on my dresses and found that they no longer fit very well - I have lost some weight with this pregnancy so far (due to extreme morning sickness) and decided I needed to make a new gown!

The problem was the time - I had about three days in which to get one made! (Lesson: Never wait til a few days before an event to try on your outfit!) I made a complete mess of my sewing room in my chaos and stress to churn this dress out but I did get it done the morning of the event and was so glad to have a nicely fitting, warm wool dress to wear to the living history.

It is a very simple dress. I had much grander plans for this fabric when I first bought it but one must adjust their priorities when time is short. I draped a new bodice pattern and the only extra effort I put into the bodice was the design of the sleeves.

I took a basic coat sleeve and slashed and spread one side of it to gather into the piped seam between the front and back sleeve. It is a subtle style but does seem fancier, somehow, than a plain sleeve.

Tucks to create faux curved back "seams" on the bodice back, and a full pleated skirt. The waistband is topstitched to the bodice on the top and piped at the bottom edge and the skirt top edge whip stitched to the bodice just inside the piping.

I put a hem facing of scrap cotton on the skirt - which I was very glad of! It was quite muddy and my hem was filthy by the end of the event. Thankfully a gentle wash got out the dirt on the fashion fabric and the hem facing took the majority of wear and staining! I was so glad I did take the extra time to put it in.

Darted bodice. It was fun to match the plaid. I made a quick white collar to baste in at the neck and wore my mourning brooch. Grampie has been gone now for just over six months, so my period of mourning is over. . .though I do not think I will ever *not* be in some degree of mourning for him. I wore my necklace of black glass beads for these photos though I did not wear the necklace to the event last week.

It was nice to get back into historic sewing. I've taken an (unplanned!) break from sewing for a while now and it was good to get the creative juices flowing again, even if I *did* have a very short deadline!

Love,
Sarah

Blake's Fatigue Blouse

A few weeks ago I finished a project that has been on my list for over a year. It's a good feeling! Early last year, Blake bought all materials for both his frock coat uniform as well as a some flannel for a lighter weight fatigue blouse. I made his frock coat and other necessary garments quickly, but the blouse has been on the back burner for a while now. It was nice to get it done.

The coat was made in a span of about three days. The pattern was created with a quick mock up we did last year for the body, and the rest of the pattern was created as the pieces were sewn. That is one nice thing about these coats - they are easy to put together, they are not very fitted so you save a lot of time on fitting and tailoring and there are very few buttons. (only 4!)

The fatigue blouse, also known as a sack coat, was a casual (and common) option for uniform in the field. These coats were mass produced and distributed to the soldiers from various depots; at this link there is a brief overview of the different styles produced by different depots. This is just a broad generalization. At John Wedeward's site you can see photos of an original coat, compared to his reproductions. You can also see photos of original federal sack coats on CW Quartermasters site.

photo from Library of Congress

For Blake's coat I decided to go with a 4 piece body - two back pieces, two front pieces - with 1 piece sleeves. Because Blake's frock coat is so heavy, being fully padded and quilted and lined, I decided to make his fatigue blouse unlined. This will hopefully help him keep cooler in the summer time, though the coat may show wear earlier than a coat made with a lining. Both unlined and lined fatigue blouses from this period exist, though unlined seems to have been less common. The material is a very lightweight twilled wool flannel from Wambaugh and White.

The construction was easy. All seams were machine stitched together and then finished by hand. The large kidney shaped pocket on the breast was applied by hand and the edges of the coat topstitched by hand. The collar is interlined with canvas to help it keep its shape but otherwise there is no interior construction. No wonder these coats could be produced so quickly for such a large variety of men!

The last thing to do was to attach the steward stripes on the sleeve. Blake got his from NJ Sekela and I was very happy with the quality and appearance. They are so pretty!

I stitched them on close to the edge of the stripe with an uneven running stitch, short on the outside and long on the inside. 

All done! A hospital stewards fatigue blouse!

Of course, I was really nervous about it until Blake was able to try it on to see if it fit. . .apparently the neck is a bit tight for him but he can still button the collar and I can move the buttons over to give him a bit more wiggle room. David said he looked very fine in it at the living history a few weeks ago. 

I really need to make a man-sized dress form thing, instead of using a couch cushion. . .

And so, that is the last of my Civil War mens sewing projects for this year unless I decide to make David something new. In the meantime I must sew like mad upon the boys regency outfits. 2 weeks til the event and I am starting to panic a bit! I have had the material for a while so WHY did I leave things til the last minute? I thought I had learned by now how awful it is to do that. I guess not. The older boys are getting fall front trousers, shirts and braces (suspenders) and Malachi is getting a little skeleton suit. Here is an in-progress shot of Judah's trousers from yesterday. They just need buttons now and they will be done!  

excuse the mashed banana on his shirt. . .

Love,

Sarah

The 1860's at David Davis Mansion

David attended a little living history this past weekend and on Saturday afternoon I brought the children out to visit him. I like doing events this way; it is much easier for me to dress the children at home and bring them out for a little while than to set up camp and stay the entire weekend. When your children are small and you are less than passionate about being at an event, this is a good arrangement.

David Davis was an Illinois judge and a friend of Abraham Lincoln. His estate has been preserved and the c. 1870's home he built for his wife still stands, lavish and exquisite in the slightly gaudy Victorian way. The living history has been held on the grounds the past few summers and it is a really nice location for an event.

The kids were happy to run around and played with several other children who were there. The only bad thing was the weather, with the heat index towards 100 and high humidity. I felt like I was breathing in steam.

I mentioned being less than passionate, and I was. Borderline apathetic with slight hostility? I don't know. Perhaps it stemmed from being sorta depressed I was not at the Louisville Jane Austen Festival, which was taking place the same weekend. It's one of those "us vs. them" sort of things. I blame David since he and the Civil War is "us" and me and any other era is "them"; at least, it seems to be that way when I think of it. Probably stemming from many years of forcing myself to go to 1860's events and wearing myself out. I hate feeling restless at an event but I was. I was able to talk to some people I hadn't seen for a while but otherwise the whole event felt flat. I was happy to go home. Satisfied with the few photos I took of the kids. I did enjoy touring the mansion, which was air-conditioned.

I  really hate feeling this way. On one hand I feel snobbish that I don't enjoy the event when so many people have put so much work and time into preparing it. On the other hand, I don't want to pretend to be happy with something I am not happy with. The problem isn't really the event, it's me. It's because I went knowing I wouldn't really like it, and so it's my own fault I was less than satisfied. I went knowing the only thing I would have to do with our group is to walk around and follow my kids and make small talk with people.

I have found I have to look at events like these this way: I go to talk to people, not to have an experience. I go to educate others, if I can, by how I appear and how I can converse with them - not to educate myself or have a "magic moment". I go to make my kids happy and to give myself a chance to see them dressed up in their period clothes so I can take pictures. I like taking pictures at events. It's farby to whip out the digital camera, but when a lot of other things may be farby, well,  I don't mind the camera so much.

I know this whole post will sound redundant since I've talked about this before but I guess I have not come to any sort of permanent conclusion about mainstream Civil War reenactments yet. Or even progressive reenactments. They all usually feel like a lot more work than they are worth.

Maybe I shouldn't be a reenactor.

I think that might be it. I love research. I love the history of the various eras I dabble in. I love reading as much as I can about those eras. I love the process of creating clothing from those eras. I love wearing the clothes and seeing my family wear them! But I don't like reenacting.

You know what I like? Dressing up and going out to a pretty place for photo shoots, having a good time with friends while we do that and if some sort of museum or antique shop or historic site is convenient to go to whilst in costume that is fantastic. I love that!

Maybe I am becoming more of a costumer instead of a reenactor. I find I am more in line with the costuming philosophy than the reenactors philosophy. But then I feel like I am "lowering" myself by being a costumer instead of a reenactor. Then I feel snobbish that I feel that way, because really, costuming and reenacting are really two totally different things, though some people definitely successfully combine the two.

This one cracks me up. . .they definitely look snobbish. . .

Well, the main point of my going to the mansion was to see Blake in the new sack coat I made for him. I didn't actually get to see him, since he left before I got there because the heat was so oppressive, but here is a picture of him and his wife by the front door. He looks really good and I had a lot of fun making his sack coat. I'll have a post about that a little later.

Now back to modern life and the county 4-H fair. Maybe I can squeeze in a sewing project this week for the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge "White". I have a few ideas.

Love,
Sarah

Mourning at the Old State Capitol Living History

David and Anne and I had a very pleasant time at the Civil War living history held in one Springfield's most interesting historic sites - the Old State Capitol. There was an encampment on the grounds around the capitol building all weekend but we chose to just go down for the day on Saturday. It is not a large event but it is nice that it is rather local.

We had perfect weather, really. After an unusually rainy spring David was anxiously watching the forecast for the week up to the event. We were blessed with sunny skies, low humidity and very comfortable temperatures for mid-June in the mid-west.

We did not have any particular activities to do. We just went down to visit and to see the event. The surgeon David generally works with did not plan any demonstrations since his wife is currently experiencing some serious health issues (please pray, if you will, for her full recovery!)

The capitol building was lovely, as always. Cool and dim and beautifully furnished, it was nice to escape inside when the glare of the sun became too hot.

The Metamora Courthouse Civil War Dancers were there and performed a collection of period dances for the spectators. Some of the dances they pulled some of the spectators into.

There was much laughing and smiling and brisk movements. The whirl of brightly colored skirts and spirited music filled the lower floor of the capitol building and it was wonderful.

A wonderful couple were present with some of their fabulous collection of original Civil War-era artifacts. David was keenly interested in the original medical tools that were on display.

On the other side of the room, tables full of original clothing and accessories captured my attention. So many lovely things! Little shoes and baby gowns, fans and jewelry. A little boys suit. There was even an original mourning brooch. I did not, however, get photos of this side of the room.

Upstairs an Abraham Lincoln impersonator gave a presentation and there were talks throughout the afternoon.

A group of ladies presented a very fine image of a period Soldiers Aid Society. It was beautifully done.

One of the nicest parts of the event was being able to see old friends. I was able to see my friend Christina, whom I have not seen since last summer, and we spent part of the afternoon sitting in the shade of column-supported porch.

Our friend Larry entertained us with amusing tales. I am afraid I laughed a bit more than was proper for someone in mourning. I blame Larry entirely. It's impossible to not laugh when he is around.

The baby was so good. She held up wonderfully throughout the morning but did become very tired in mid afternoon. She desperately fought sleep.She held out for a while but at last succumbed and napped for a half hour or so.

photo credit Cheri Fry

How she regained so much energy from a short half hour nap I have no idea. . .but it is certain she did. She flirted shamelessly for passer-bys and hammed up in front of the numerous cameras pointed at her.

She drank from Daddy's canteen.

She loved playing with the children who came to visit her from time to time (she would never do well as only child. She missed her brothers horribly.)

And generally was half brat, half angel.

David took some pictures of Christina and I. We do not have many of us together.

Christina is a Writer.

One of the best parts of the afternoon was listening to her talk about the novel she is currently writing. Although I dabble in small stories from time to time I could never write a novel and it was fascinating listening to the overview of her plot. Wow! Look out for her name in the future - this girl has got talent!

And so how was Mourning?

It was therapeutic. It was relieving. I do admit I was a little self conscious at first. When we walked up to the building along the city sidewalks I received many curious looks. Soon, however, people began to ask me if I was in mourning and who I was mourning for. They seemed genuinely sorry to hear I had, in fact, yes, really lost someone and expressed their condolences very sincerely.

I was able to share with some of them some of the mourning customs of the day, the various articles of clothing I was wearing and the significance of them. All the while in the back of my mind I had the comforting knowledge that this was for Grampie.

It is interesting how donning such attire can influence ones behavior. I automatically felt I needed to be quieter, more sober, gentler, to move more slowly.

On our way home we stopped by the little Mount Zion cemetery that is located in the middle of the country about a mile from our house. It is where I took the boys a few days after Grampie's death and we held our own little "memorial service" for him there, since I could not make the trip back to Rhode Island.

Here we had talked about Grampie and I had played songs on my guitar. It is here that I closely connect those first days of sadness with him. Though his body is not here, it seems his spirit hovers closely and this is a place I think I will go often to think of him.

Through mourning I think I feel better because it is a physical way I can somehow say to Grampie "I still think about you. I am still sad that you are gone. I remember you and love you. I miss you. I am always conscious of you."

Mourning for grandparents was, according to some etiquette guidelines of the day, a period of 6 months. For lighter mourning I think I will remake my purple lawn sacque and petticoat from last year into a day dress style and retrim it with black instead of the green it is currently trimmed with. It will work quite well for the last stage of mourning before one resumed colors again. (and I never did have a chance to wear that sacque and petticoat outfit last year. . .it definitely needs to see some use in some form!)

So all in all, my first venture out in mourning went well! I pray it will be a long while before I need to don it again once this period is over. I have one set of grandparents left and I do hope they will be around as my children grow up. No one can really take the place of grandparents! They enrich a child's life so much. They are so different from Mom and Dad!

Love,
Sarah