A Regency Roundgown - Sleeves and Skirt

It has been a rather wet and humid week and I was able to quickly get the sleeves done, in the course of about an afternoon. Generally sleeves are my least favorite parts of a garment to sew - yet for some reason the most satisfying.

Now, here I must share the extremely important information to ALWAYS SAVE YOUR SLEEVE PATTERNS. Sleeves are hard, but its easier when you have a base pattern to start from. I generally trace off my finished bodice mock ups to save as a pattern for future gowns but for some reason fail to trace and save the sleeves. Do not make my mistakes; learn from them. Save the sleeves.

So. This sleeve is a super basic elbow length sleeve. Its cut with an S shaped head, so the seam runs down the back of the arm. Little pleats take in the excess fullness of the sleeve head and are set at the back of the arm. This way of cutting, coupled with a deeply cut back armscye, gives maximum flexibility to arm movement.

And all that I need to do is sew up that seam, finish the seam, hem the bottom and thats it.

The finished sleeves are pinned into the armscyes. Now, generally you fit the sleeves as you go and then sew them in after you perfect their hang on your own arms. This dress is from a pattern I draped to fit my dressform, not me, so I didn't fit the sleeves again after the initial draping.

And an inside view: 

If desired, the armscye seam can be finished. The tidiest looking (well, in my opinion anyway) is binding the armscyes. 

And here is what it looks like so far!

The skirt is extremely easy - just two rectangles seamed together, with a slit cut and hemmed at center front for the front opening. 

I cut this skirt with a slight train at the back (very slight) so the top edge of the rectangle skirt was cut higher in the back, tapering down at the sides to the front. This enables the hem to be sewn easily (no curves to hem) and still gives the extra length at the back to train prettily. 

To sew the skirt to the bodice, I pleated up fabric at the back in deep pleats. leaving the skirt plain at the side and front. 

After pinning the skirt to the bodice, I sewed it together. Woo ya. The seam between the bodice and skirt at the front and sides will be sewn to become the drawstring channel for the waistline. The seam allowance at the back (where the skirt is pleated) will be covered in self fabric binding. Here's a back view: 

And front: 

A Regency Roundgown - Bodice

Last fall I draped a new pattern for a basic regency drawstring bodice and wanted to experiment with it to see what kinds of garments I could make from one basic pattern. I made a short jacket/bodice to wear over a gown or a petticoat, an open robe and now I'm finally making a round gown. So far I have made the bodice and cut the sleeves. This type of gown has a skirt that is attached all the way around the waist (thus making it a "round" gown) and the opening is at the front. The bodice has a fitted lining that pins shut at the bust and the outer layer is gathered up on drawstrings over it. The skirt has a center front slit that is hidden when the drawstring waistline is gathered up. 

First, I cut the back and side pieces from my dress fabric. I also cut a layer of cotton for lining: 

They were sewn together with the lining and outer fabric treated as one. 

I usually sew the fitted lining, or flaps, as a single layer hemmed all around the edges. For these, though, I cut two layers and sewed them together and turned them right sides out for a sturdier flap, since I want to see if this will support the bosom better if worn without stays. 

And here is the lining piece laid over the outer bodice, matching armscyes. I've turned under a narrow hem at the neckline of the outer bodice for the neckline drawstring. 

To finish the seams I turned them under and felled them down by hand. 

The neckline casing for the drawstring was stitched down, the front edges of the bodice hemmed and the strings run through: 

Then the front and back were sewn together at the shoulder and sides and voila! A bodice. :) 

Okay, I will need you to excuse the sad state of my dressform. After being used by me for a while she was lent out to several other people and was returned in a rather disheveled state. The inner parts wore out, snapped off and gave up and I was on the verge of tossing her into the garbage when I decided to try one last time to make her work for me. She got a new wooden pole and a Christmas tree stand to keep her upright and I taped the body together with white duct tape. So, she lives again. For how long? Who knows. But for now she works well enough for my purposes. 

Bodice lining pinned shut, and the outer bodice gathered up over it. 

Next up: sleeves. 

I'm looking forward to seeing this dress finished. I've been re reading Mansfield Park and this simple style of dress and informal cotton print is one I can imagine Fanny wearing.  

Pleated Frills

This week I got into an 18th century fever of passion and pulled out my costuming books and fabrics for new stays. The last ones I made were a tad long waisted and not as comfortable after a few hours of wear as they might have been.

They aren't the biggest priority at the moment (I need new regency stays far more) so I spent an afternoon patterning a cap that can be used for this period through the regency period as well.

This is a basic enough cap. It has a shaped band, a poufy crown with a drawstring neckline and a frill. I decided to sew these mostly by hand so spent a few pleasant sunshiney hours stitching on the big bed in my room with the baby napping at my side.

It was nice to practice hand sewing again. I have used the machine quite a lot lately but I do not have that unique and intimate connection with a machined project that is present when something is hand sewn.

My favorite part was making the pleated frill. The linen creased so well just with finger pressing and I liked seeing it take shape as the pleats were pinned. I cut the frill to have a gradually decreasing width towards the ears with the widest point over the forehead.

Scraps of silk worked for decoration. I made the other cap with greenish-gold colored silk trim.

Both of these are available in my etsy shop. I ordered some sheer white cotton so my next ones will be finer, with lace edging.

Love,
Sarah

1860's Corded Bonnet

Well, I haven't made my 1970's knit dress yet. I want to. I need to. The baby bump is making my normal clothes fit awkwardly and nothing seems quite so relaxing as the thought of draping myself in yards of soft comfy knit. But, well, when it comes down to it sewing for profit wins over sewing for personal desires and so, I made a new sunbonnet instead.



This sunbonnet is based on the below original, which I've wanted to copy for quite a few years now. For some reason I thought the vandyked edge on the brim would be super hard. It wasn't. It went together pretty fast, although I did use my machine for most parts.



It is a bit different from the standard "on the square" bonnets I've made before. This one has a flared brim which frames the face prettily without giving it a narrowing effect. It has a more fitted crown. The curtain is still rectangular. I gathered it by hand and whipped it to the inside of the finished brim and bottom crown edges.



It needs a little more work to be more like the original. A shorter curtain, a more tailored crown (mine came out a bit too poufy) and another set of 3 rows of cording in the brim.



It might be a nice addition to use a drawstring to draw up the fullness at the back neck. It would be adjustably sized that way and it makes ironing easier. I might try that on the next one.



The brim is cut in two identical pieces, sewn right sides together along the vandyked and short edges, turned and pressed. The cording is put in as 3 rows along the short and vandyked edge, then 2 more sets of 3 rows evenly spaced. (Just over an inch, in my case). Like I said, the next one will use another set of cords to more closely resemble the original.



This bonnet sold right away through a Facebook group but I was truly astounded by the interest in this style. I'll be making more and they will be available in my etsy shop for $45 pp once I refine the pattern.

Love,
Sarah

Hoods

Not much lately but hoods! I did have the luxury of going out today, without the children, to fabric shop. I bought a length of knit to make a dress from a 1976 pattern Anne unearthed for me from a dusty cardboard box stuffed on the bottom shelf of my book-turned-fabric-case.

A hood in silver grey with blue silk trim:





And one in quilted plaid wool:





I am tiring of hood-making. My thoughts are turned springward.

Its 2015! How did that happen?

Love,
Sarah

A New Style of Winter Bonnet

I made a new style of bonnet this week, copied from a mid 19th century bonnet made in what looks like plaid silk. For mine, I used some plaid wool.

The brim was cut as a rectangle with shaped ends. I piped round the edges and lined it with pale yellow cotton. It is interlined with cotton batting and hand quilted along lines of the plaid. Simple, but effective.

The crown was pleated to fit, and a rectangular curtain hand gathered and whip stitched to the piped neckline edge.

I didn't quilt the crown and the curtain is lined only with cotton. No batting, as I feared that would make it too bulky.

And an inside shot:

I also made another bonnet using the winter hood pattern I made and posted years ago. This version is made in black velveteen and blue silk with trimming of purple velvet ribbon.

It's lined with black sateen and interlined with cotton batting.

I wasn't sure if I'd like the purple with the black and blue, but now that its done I quite like it!

I finished the 1860's dress this past week also. It will soon be on its way to its new home.






Love,
Sarah

Finished Open Robe

I finished the robe but the petticoat took me a bit longer to make. Finally, earlier this week, I was able to complete it!

I am pleased with how it came out, although it is a bit large for me. Since I draped the pattern on the dress form and designed it to be able to fit several sizes, I would certainly tailor it more to my specific shape for next time.

The skirt panels are two 45" panels seamed down the center back, tightly pleated at the back with two pleats at side front skirts. This gives a pleasing flow to the skirts. The skirts move very gracefully, although I think for casual wear a round gown is much better.

The drawstrings do a good job of closing the front. On the form, they tie shut at a 40" bustline.

I am smaller, and uncorseted in these photos, but by drawing up the strings more the robe fit well enough. (Excuse the weird facial expression. Seems my young photographer enjoys taking candid shots, and soon lost interest in a serious endeavor).

I made the petticoat using the same bodice pattern, but with the opening moved to center back and the neckline and armscyes cut down a bit.

The back was pleated, with a few side front pleats.

I used a yellow cotton for the petticoat. For "work" wear a darker petticoat would be much better.

I need to work more on a better regency hairstyle. Due to an unfortunate string of events involving unintentional black chemical hair dye in the spring of 2013, subsequent black hair dye to keep roots from showing, eventual detestation of the dull synthetic black, experimentation with hair bleach to get out the black (yet not all the 3+ years worth of henna) I ended up with dark blonde/light brown hair whose color was actually similar to my natural color. However, it was so damaged and weakened I had to cut about 5" off and after a few egg and mayo protein treatments I dyed it with my beloved henna and an equal amount of indigo. It is already so much better feeling and thicker, but now quite short, alas.

OK, so the open robe is done. Now to start thinking about a Christmas dress for Anne Victoria and to see how I can turn this pattern into a short gown.

Love!

Sarah

Open Robe Progress

My very first open robe is nearly done! Amidst the extreme chaos that a two year old girl brings to a household (the boys have nothing, NOTHING, on their sister - I'm so glad I have just one girl) I've been able to find odd minutes here and there to work on it. (Did I mention Anne is a holy terror? She has pure and innocent motives in all she does, but MY GOODNESS.)

I decided to use the bodice lining as the front bodice for this robe. The 1790-1800 open robe in Costume in Detail is cut similarly. The bodice is lined in white linen.

The Costume in Detail robe closes with drawstrings at the center front. Once my channels are sewn I'll run tape strings through.

All that's left at this point is handwork. Basically - a crap load of hemming. Then I'll need to make a petticoat.

I had just enough scrap left to piece a long strip for a possible neckline ruching. Not sure yet if I will add it or not. The neckline is quite low, so a ruffle may help raise it up a bit. A neckerchief could work just as well. We will see.

Love,
Sarah