Constructing The Kirtle - Step 2: The Fabric

Thanks to everyone who had advice and tips for me on my last post! I am working on getting my shift/smock complete and making a mock up of the sleeve and then will baste the sleeve in and try the mock up on one more time to make sure of the fit before I cut into my wool.

I have also decided to forego the linen kirtle, at least for now. Thank you for your advice on that as well. I think the wool will hold up much better anyway.

So, after fitting the mock up my next problem was my fabric. I had 8 yards of a beautiful wool/silk blend fabric that washed up very prettily, with a slightly fuzzy surface. The problem was the color - a light tan. Skin tight bodice + skin colored fabric = a very uncomfortable Sarah and a husband who won't let her out of the house. I spent a loonng time trying to decide if I ought to dye the wool a different color or just buy new wool. Frugality won in the end, and I decided to try to dye the wool.

My last dyeing experience was not successful at all (overdyeing an already-constructed 1860's style dress). The dye came out splotchy and uneven. It was a failure. It was hard for me to actually dye the wool when it came to the point. I didn't want to ruin it. I prayed about it and spent about an hour on Sunday night heating water, standing over a steaming washing machine and agitating the fabric in the dye for about a half hour before giving up hope and letting the cycle finish and plopping the wet fabric in the dryer. I had no idea how it would come out.

Much to my suprise and thankfulness (why I am always suprised when God answers my prayers?) the fabric came out splendidly. The dye was even and clean and the color was almost exactly the same color as the linen I had planned to get for a linen kirtle - a pretty blue-green. The wool is a few shades darker than the linen sample, but still! I'm very pleased. I used 1 box of Rit dye, dark green, and 1 box of Rit dye, royal blue. I dissolved both packets in 4 cups of hot water and agitated it in the hot-water-filled machine before adding in the wet, warm wool fabric. The color came out very soft and muted since I used the 2 packets to dye 5 yards of 60" wide wool.

Now; another question for you experts. To line or not to line? I do not really want to fully line this dress but am thinking I may need an extra layer of fabric for support in the torso area. Has anyone done this? How does it work? My wool fabric is a tad stretchier than the sheet I used for the mock up. I have some sturdy and tight woven dark brown linen I could possibly use to line the torso. From what I've read, linen was only blue, cream or white in period but this would be hidden anway and seems a better choice than cotton. What to do?

Love,
Sarah

Constructing The Kirtle - Step 1: The Mock Up

Having procrastinated too long already, I decided this morning that I needed to do something creative and start work on my 14th century things. I am starting out very simply with a linen smock, wool hose, and a kirtle. I am not yet sure what kind of overkirtle or cote (the terms are quite confusing to me still!) I will make yet. But first things first.

Having looked at quite a few different sites and read about different methods of making this basic, supporting under-dress I took bits and pieces of advice from different places and put them together to make my initial mock up. I'll share some of these great resources as I go along.

I started with a big rectangle of fabric from a sheet and cut a hole in the middle for my head. Then, keeping the center front on straight of grain, I began pulling and pinning and cutting til I had something that looked like it was starting to work. I then took the basic rought shape of those pieces (front and back) and smoothed out the lines and averaged them up. That was used to make a second mock up which fit pretty well, but still needed a bit of fine tuning. The 3rd and last mock up is pictured here.

My question to you ladies is; what do you think? I am not exactly sure what level of fitness I am going for. I know the bosom has to be supported but how tight does this dress need to be? Right now, it is fairly tight but does not feel confining. I am so used to wearing corsets, though, that tightness does not really bother me. It is very tight just below the bust line and for a few inches down the torso. Then just above the hips it begins to flare out. The pattern stops at hip length since from there I will just make it a rectangular shape to the floor and add gores as needed to get fullness in the hem.

There are some wrinkles under the bust and some at the waist from time to time. I have heard from other costumers that this is normal. I really don't see how I could get a supportive garment totally wrinkle free without the use of boning or cording of some kind, so are the wrinkles here okay? After all, the only thing holding me up and in is fabric! :P

How about the neckline? Is it too low? Too high? (I don't want to go any lower!) too shallow, too wide? Too scooped?

Aghh!! I'm so excited to finally be starting this dress but am so nervous I'll make a dreadful mistake which will render it unwearable.

I hope to have some progress posts in the next week or so. My next step is dyeing some wool to make this dress in. The current colour of the wool is very nearly a flesh color and I think I want something a little darker, for the sake of modesty. We'll see how the wool ones comes out, and then I will make a linen one. I got my fabric samples from Fabric-store.com and found exactly the color I wanted. :) It's a lovely pale blue-green-grey called "Meadow".

Any and all input and constructive criticism on the fit will be extremely welcomed!

Love,

Sarah

A New Era for Living History

Over the past month and half or so, David and I have been slowly working our way into learning more about other reenactment organizations in our area. The 1860's is "home", to both of us, but it gets monotonous after a while. We looked for a Rev. War group, but to no avail. At last, we did find a local group that reenacts Medieval era activities and festivities - the SCA.

For me, it was like returning to my first love! Although I have never participated in the SCA before, my first introduction to living history was spectating at an SCA event which happened to be the same year I also attended my first Civil War reenactment. I was thrilled by the costumes, the accents, the gallant courtesy. The very smell of the air was different, the people seemingly busily employed in their demonstrations and persuits. The tents were festive and colorful, ladies with magnificent gows and rich trimmings stepped lightly over the grass, their trains skimming over the ground. Mysterious gentleman with sweeping cloaks and dark hoods silently glided along, magicians and story tellers entertained groups of eager listeners and fighters clad in padded doublets and chain mail prepared for the trounament while the king and queen, resplendent in their finery, looked on.

A few weeks ago we contacted the Baron of Illiton and went to our first SCA meeting. When we walked in, some people were busy making Viking style shoes. We spent a few  hours visiting and talking to people and asking hundreds of questions and we both left in a glow of satisfaction and excitement.

In the meantime I was busy researching clothing of the era. I really had very little idea of where to start, so I owe a ton of gratitude to Sarah at A Most Peculiar Mademoiselle, who answered many questions, gave me great advice and places to look for information. Now that I've spent a few hours each day the past few weeks looking into 14th century clothing, I think I am getting an idea of where to start. I have come across so many fabulous websites that I am so eager to share with you all, and hopefully will as bit by bit I begin on our clothing.

I've been working on building up my scanty stores of linen and wool, since those two fibers seem to be the best choice for working attire of the 14th century. I have ordered from Fashion Fabrics Club, Fabric-store.com and Fabric.com and think I have most of what I need to make things for David and the boys and I. Fashion Fabrics Club was a bit of a disappointment since the 5 yards of blue linen I ordered from them turned out to be something like aida cloth - suitable for cross-stitch embroidery but not clothing. :( I was very pleased with the linens I got from Fabric-store.com and so hope to get my kirtle linen from them. . .as soon as the samples I ordered arrive and I decide on a colour. :) Hopefully today.

The Medieval Tailors Assistant by Sarah Thursfield was recommended by Sarah of A Most Peculiar Mademoiselle and my copy finally got here yesterday. It is full of helpful information on how to select proper fabrics, hand stitches, diagrams for patterns for gowns, kirtles, tunics, doublets, undergarments, children and baby clothing and headware. I have been persuing it in my spare time and am so glad I got this very useful and informative book.

So - things may be taking on a bit of a different look in the coming weeks and months. Soon our Civil War reenacting season will be finishing up for the year so I will have more time to devote to making our 14th century clothing. I tentatively hope to have basic ensembles for us ready by Illitons 12th Night party in January. Hopefully!

Love,
Sarah

Vermilion County Civil War Days 2010

This past weekend was one of our favorite fall Civil War events and even though David was feeling rather poorly, we packed up our babies, our gear and Peter, my "brother", ;) and headed out on Friday evening. We set up camp in the dark, David made a good, warm fire and thus our home for the weekend was established.

I have been feeling really bad lately about how the civilian presence in a military camp can really destroy the accurate impression that might otherwise be made. Our medical unit is made of four families and among us there are four children, a young lady, four women and Peter. This time, instead of setting up directly with the hospital, David and I decided to try camping on our own. We had our own fire, we were seperated from the medical location and I think this is a better compromise than having our family right next to the hospital. A tent with a surgeons family, right next to a field hospital just very likely would not have happened. We still visited with our fellow group members and hung out, at times, beneath their hospitable fly, but we were not dwelling among them. :) We will never have an 1860's mindest or way of thinking. We are products of a modern age, even if we resent that. ;) But a baby step forward is progress. Accuracy is a process, not a destination! We will never reach a total level of correctness. But as long as we are making an effort to improve, bit by bit, I think that is commendable. :)

It was a fun event. We did experience a mishap when the temperatures plummeted and the rain began to fall earnestly on Saturday night. Shivering and damp, the children and I just wanted to lay down in our tent and pull up the covers to get warm while David tended the fire. Unfortunately, we forgot to put our fly up over our tent and when we went inside we discovered the roof was leaking. Large puddles had already formed on the boys blankets and cots and our bed was likewise very damp. Having really no other alternative, we decided to go home for the night and come back in the morning. It was a good decision in the end. We got a good nights sleep in a warm, dry house and I was able to dress myself and Malachi in our wool gowns since Sunday was crisp and breezy - and the sheer dress I had originally brought for Sunday would NOT have been suitable!

Danville is a very family friendly event. It is a lovely location and I met some wonderful people. Since our events are very mainstream, one of the best things about them, for me, is meeting new folks. It gives me a good reason to keep coming out. :)

On Sunday there was a demonstration of the Appomattox surrender. I must say, viewing that gave me goosebumps and caused tears to rise in my eyes and course down my face. The gentlemen portraying Lee, Grant and their staff were excellent at what they did. The saddest part was Lee's controlled sadness and pasion as he rose after signing the surrender agreement. The gray and butternut-clad Confederates, war-torn, veteran and filled with respect and love for their commander, lined the road where Lee exited the lawn of the house. His words to them were unforgettable.

I did not, alas, wear my new sunbonnet at all and as a consequence got sunburned. I brought my straw bonnet and was so afraid of it getting crushed, as, in sad and past experience, other fashion bonnets of mine have been. I decided the only safe place for it was on my head. :) Fashion bonnets may be pretty but they really do nothing to preseve one's complexion! I suppose that is an excuse for a repro parasol sometime in the future!

More pictures here: Danville 2010

Love,
Sarah

Practical Head-ware

I thought about finishing my brown drawn bonnet for use this fall at events. It has only been in progress since February. But I rejected the idea in favor of making a new sunbonnet since I sold the ones I had previously made and was without one entirely. And, gasp, is it not rather *shocking* to go about bare-headed? (although I usually do. . .)

This one is made from Timely Tresses Lucy Amelia Sunbonnet pattern. This is the 3rd one I have made from this pattern and I must say, I do like it very much. It has a pleasant shape that flares from the head instead of encasing it in long vertical lines. The long vertical lines were just not doing it for me, you know. I am not exactly thrilled to see myself in a such a bonnet and be grimly reminded of the long, narrow face of a mule. This pattern is a different. And I do like it. Perhaps this will take care of my preference to wear nothing on my head at all.

The brim is made from a double layer of white and blue striped cotton. The brim is interlined with two layers of cotton flannel, for stiffness and washability and the whole thing is hand quilted for sturdiness and shape. The crown is just one layer of fabric and there is a drawstring adjustment for the neckline and ties at the neck and under the chin.

I love how fast this pattern works up - both quilted bonnets I have made from this pattern have taken just one day to complete. The corded one (with over 25 rows of cording if I recall correctly) took just two afternoons. I don't usually use patterns but this is definitely a keeper!

Fall is surely here and this weekend we are off to another event. If I try very hard I may succeed in being a good girl and keeping my bonnet on when out and about!

Love,

Sarah

1850's Plaid Gown, Sleeves, Collar and Skirt

Some of you may remember the royal blue satin-and-velvet ballgown I made earlier this year for my friend Nona. Nona is just the loveliest person to work with in costuming. She is thorough in her planning, she knows exactly what she wants and she doesn't complain about being fitted. :)

After her ball gown was finished Nona brought me the Simplicity 3727 pattern along with a beautiful blue and green cotton plaid. She loved the style and the fabric was exactly what she had in mind. She told me to take my time and not rush with this dress since she did not need it right away.

Finally - after five months! - I am starting on this dress. I hope to have it done so Nona can use it next weekend at our next Civil War event. I am rather glad I did not make it earlier this year since it is working up to be quite visually heavy - more appropriate for cooler weather than warm.

Simplicity 3727 is a pattern based on an original dress from the Wisconsin Historical Society. It is more of an 1850's style than a true Civil War (1861-1865) style, but even so, this style is really far more appropraite than most gowns seen at events around here. ;) And Nona is a bit older, so perhaps this may have been a style she would have liked and would have continued using in the period. I have made 2 other dresses from this pattern for other people, but this is the first one I am making in a natural fiber! *bliss* Synthetics just do NOT work well for mid-19th century sewing!

The fabric is a 100% cotton plaid in dark royal blue and emerald green. Nona looks very nice in these rich, clear, dark colors. The trimming is black cotton fringe and black velvet ribbon. The ribbon is made from bias strips of velvet yardage, which was a lot more economical than purchasing ready-to-use velvet ribbon. I just "eyeballed" the strips but tried to keep them at about 3/4" wide. The sleeves are partially open, and instead of the fringe trimming the edges of this opening, Nona opted for black cord frogs to close this opening decoratively. Matchings frogs will be used as decoration on the bodice. The lower sleeve is lined with black cotton sateen and the upper sleeve with plain white cotton.

The sleeves are really very rich and heavy looking. I love the contrast of texture and mood between the sleeves and the undersleeves. The undersleeves are quite light and dainty and have a very feminine pointed cuff, which I love, and are trimmed with very dainty lace. They close at the wrist with a buttohole and shell button.

The collar is also of light white cotton and trimmed with the same lace. Here you can see how large the collar is. This definitely dates the dress to the 50's. By the 60's, the collars were much more narrow. I still have to slip stitch the bias band to cover the seam allowance on this collar, then it will be ready to baste into the neckline of the basque once that is finished.

No pics of the skirt - but its just a plain old rectangular paneled skirt with the typical hem facing and waistband. :) This weekend Nona will be coming over to get fitted for the basque. Hopefully we won't run into any snags and I can get some pictures of Nona wearing this gown next weekend!

Love,

Sarah

Havana Civil War Dance

David, Peter and I had a great time at the Havana dance this past Saturday evening. The weather was cool and crisp and breezy. We had a small group, but it was delightful and even more so when the spectators came on the dance floor and joined in with us.

For the first time in a long time, I got to actually dance more than one or two dances! I was even able to learn a few new ones, due to some lovley people who were willing to take us more inexperienced folk under their wing. This was because the boy-o's were left with grandmama and I did not have to chase them around. Though I was grateful for some "grown up" time, I did miss them terribly and was very glad to see them again when I got home. David enjoyed himself immensely and thinks we ought to attend dance practice twice a month and have someone watch the boys while we do that. I don't know. I have very very rarely ever been away from the boys since they were born. I think they would be fine to be away from us for a few hours every other week - but would I?

For more pictures, you can go here.

Have a lovely Labor Day!

Love,

Sarah

1930's Style Red and Cream Cotton Dress

At last I have some pictures of my 1930's style red and cream dress! I've had this done for a while and have worn it a lot. It is definitely a new favorite. It's a bit difficult for me to go through the murk and mire of 1860's fashion that has more recently been going through my head, but I believe with this dress I wanted to go for a more early-to-mid 30's look with slightly longer, slimmer skirts, more flare at the hem and with a lot of emphasis on the shoulder/neckline area.

There were two dresses I based this one off of. One was a reprinted Past Patterns pattern for an earlier 1930's dress, and one was in an ad from a 1934 Sears Catalog. The pattern is very basic. The bodice is my base one that is slashed and spread at the chest level for some fullness to be gathered into a center front seam. The sleeves are circular two layer flutter sleeves with the upper sleeve being slightly smaller than the under sleeve. The skirt is made in six gores and is cut to be a little generous at the waist, fitting not too loose nor too tight over the hips and coming in again around knee level to create a little shaping before finally flaring out into a trumpet like shape at the hem, which ends a bit above the ankle.

The fabric is a lovely 100% cotton voile I got from Jo Anns last year. It was on clearance in the home dec department. The red floral print is HUGE so I wasn't sure how well it would look as a garment. But I was pleasantly suprised it worked quite well for a dress. I just had to be careful where I placed the big floral motifs so I would not end up looking lopsided when I wore the dress! I squeezed this dress out of 3 yards of fabric with almost a half yard left to spare. I love dresses that take such little bits of fabric. :) The fabric is very sheer so I had to make a slip to wear under it - which you have already seen in my post quite a few post backs about the ultra-modern 1930's bias cup slip. :P

I have more 30's dresses planned! I even bought fabric a few weeks ago for another summer style one; a pretty blue-green cotton printed with pink flowers. I hope I get a chance to make it while it is still warm enough to wear it! I just need to get through reenacting season with my interest in the 30's intact. Reenacting sewing has a way of draining my mind of everything but the 1860's. ;) This week it's mens clothes. . .and finishing my new quilt, if I get the time!

Love,
Sarah

Galesburg Heritage Days

Our fall reenacting season kicked off this past weekend. Despite a little rain and a camp-site that was a wee bit too small for our unit, it was a lovely weekend and we all had a great time. However, I am t.i.r.e.d.! And coming back from an event - especially a warm one - makes me appreciate my own bathroom and my own shower and my own bed a whole lot more than usual. Ummm. Luxery.

We had a nice size group with us this year. Jenny P. and her husband came out as well as my friend Peter. Miss C. also attended with us, this being her first event. Being in good company always makes an event far nicer than being alone.

I am exhausted and really don't have much time to write a nice blog post about the event. However, I do have some pictures from this weekend up here: Galesburg Pics We have a dial up internet connection and I thought it would be easier to just link to this page than upload all the pictures all over again here!

Our next event is a dance on the 4th of September. It will just be David and I that day, along with our friend Peter. I am contemplating making up my ball gown for it, though it will be only an outside dance. We'll see what happens when I get some energy back! ;)

Have a lovely week!
Love,

Sarah

The Smallest Kepi

I have made a lot of American Civil War reenactment clothing over the years. However, I have never made a kepi before and I have never made anything for an animal before. When our unit commander asked me a few months ago if I thought I could make a kepi for our units mascot, a little yorkie-poo doggie named McGregor I hesitated at first. But then he said "I know you probably can't do this. . ." and that was it. I just had to prove I could!

The kepi was probably the most common form of headgear worn by Union troops in the 1860's. If I remember correctly, the kepi was adopted from the French army. They are impractical things, of course, but the army didn't seem to think of practicality in the clothing they issued at times. :) I began to study David's kepis to get an idea of the shape and realized a kepi is a pretty basic thing, after all. A circular, stiffened crown, a shaped band, a rectangular band on the bottom, a leather brim and leather chin strap- which, if pictorial evidence is any guide, was hardly ever used as a chin strap and served mainly as a decorative addition to the kepi.

For McGregor's kepi I asked for his weight and used a similary sized stuffed animal as a guide. I used scraps of blue wool flannel left over from David's sack coat for the main part, lined it with black polished cotton and used bits of soft, old black leather from an ancient duffel bag in my possession for the brim and the chin strap. Alas, I did not have any small Federal Eagle buttons to put on the kepi so two four-hole brass buttons were used instead.

To accomodate pointy doggie ears I added narrow black grosgrain ribbon in V shapes at each side. A long tie was attached to the point of each V to tie under his chin. Modeling the kepi is little David's stuffed doggie who has approximately the same size head as McGregor.

I'm crossing my fingers that this will fit him. . .hopefully it will. I will find out Friday!

Love,
Sarah