Finished Wrapper and Thoughts on Modesty

For my dear readers who have so patiently endured the construction posts detailing the making of this garment, I thank you for your longsuffering. The wrapper is done - except the petticoat, but it is totally wearable as-is with plain petticoats - and, until I decide I need to make another one, you will hear of the wrapper no more. At least, potentially. :)

However, this will not be just a wrapper-post. I will get into the dangerous waters of talking about modesty. I don’t want to talk about it but feel that I ought to since, it seems, more often lately, I have heard from ladies and young ladies who admire modest attire and take it for granted that I am a modestly dressed person. For the past few months I have felt very hypocritical about allowing such things to be thought - because, the truth is, I don’t believe, per se, in “modesty”.

I *used* to. Oh yes, for many years I draped myself in long, dark clothes which slowly crept into historic fashion, which I totally fell in love with. My mother was concerned at the time because she thought I was becoming legalistic. I thought I wasn’t - but I was. In my late teens I was so judgemental and critical of others who did not have the same standards of dress that I did. The Lord is so gracious, and thankfully has shown me, gently, that my ways are not His ways. . .and He leads everyone according to His plan for them. My clothes are my own matters. Other people’s clothes are their own matters. I have enough to do trying to run my own life. Other people have enough to do running their own lives!

When I went to college at age 18, I wore “weird” clothes. They probably would be considered modest by most modern day people, but I didn’t really wear them *because* they were modest. It was because I thought they were pretty, a little different and it was what I liked. I experienced some snobbery from other “modestly” dressed girls, who usually had cliques and little sub-groups. I felt they didn't like me or accept me because I didn't wear what they did - jean skirts with slits in the back or sides, polo shirts and the latest in runniing shoes. My gunne sax dresses, lacey shawls and granny boots condemned me to other "black sheep" - who were, in fact, some of the most interesting people I've ever known. I felt an outcast. One person who was always very nice and pleasant was a girl with dreadlocks and who dressed in Goth style clothing. I never knew her name, but we chatted in the bathroom or the halls and smiled and nodded when we’d pass each other on the way to classes. She told me she liked the way I dressed and often asked about different skirts I wore or a long green coat I patterned and made. My best girl friend in college was Joyce, who never wore skirts or dresses. In fact, on the last day of class she said she’d wear a skirt if I wore trousers (since she had never seen me in pants!) so we did. :)

I could go on and on with similar experiences - but in the end, I realized that trying to be modest was not for me because it automaticaly made me have a bad attitude towards those who were not dressed as I thought they should be. My own thoughts of modesty set a standard I thought everyone should adhere to! So now I just dress in what works for me and how I feel God wants *me* to dress. And *for me*. I have come to the conclusion that what is right *for me* is probably not just right for everyone else. Look at the idea of modesty. For some it means to be clad head to toe in long, loose garments with head coverings and thick dark stockings and shoes. For others, a long denim skirt and a comfortably loose t-shirt does the trick. For others, a knee-length skirt or even trousers is enough to make them feel comfortable. Other girls like to wear short-shorts and cropped tops. And everyone in these cases may feel they are dressed comfortable, attractively and appropriately. Will they all agree with each other? Probably most definitely not! But they have chosen what they feel is the best choice for themselves, for whatever reasons or standards they have.

I like long skirts. I like clothes that do not emphasize every roll or bump. I like historic fashion. Okay. I LOVE historic fashion!! So that is what influences my clothing choices. Is my clothing “modest”? To me, it is. But I prefer not to use the word “modest” since it really has no set meaning that is the same for each person. And historic fashion is not necessarily modest. In fact, almost ever fashion era I've studied emphasizes the female form which many do not consider to be modest. Women "back then" wanted to appear attractive and desirable. Human nature has not changed with the years.  My mother told me several times about how she thought regency gowns could be immodest because they emphasize the bosom, and how 1860's styles could be considered immodest because they are so tightly fitted through the bodice. And - her observations are totally right.

So yesterday I wore my wrapper in public, to several stores and to a park where we picnicked and walked around. It was fun, I felt comfortable and I found out that yes, a supportive undergarment of some kind is necessary with this. :P

And a girl with short shorts told me she liked it. :)

Love,

Sarah

Wrapper Progress - Facings, Hems and Sleeves

I got the facings on the long front openings sewn down yesterday and then attached the hem facing. The hem facing is about 4" wide and protects the hem from wear and tear. It is a fun pinkish red print that is a cheerful glimpse of color - not that anyone is supposed to see it!

After that I sewed up the sleeves. They are a variation of my basic one piece coat sleeve. They are still cut on the fold, but the bottom edge is curved and belled slightly. They come to just above my wrist and will be worn with open undersleeves. This eliminates a close fitting cuff for maximum coolness; after all, this wrapper is meant to be hot-weather wear. If I like it a lot I may make another one specifically for cooler weather. I sewed a band of horizontal stripes to each sleeve to visually emphasize the width of the sleeve. The band is sewn down by machine close to the folded edge. This was a lot quicker to do than sewing it down by hand!

The skirt also got a horizontal striped band. The band is about 2 3/4" wide and is placed 8" above the hem. This seemed to work best for my height and figure and for the fact that this probably will not be worn over a cage. I would probably have made the band a little wider and a little higher up on the skirt if I were to wear this mainly over a cage.

Next I piped the armscyes. I had to piece in a little bit on the back armscye. For some reason I cut it weird and the sleeve would not have set smoothly unless I pieced in a half circle shape on each back shoulder. That done, I set in the sleeves. They have two small pleats at the back shoulder to create room for movement.

Try on time! Here I just threw it on over my modern clothes and tied the belt loosely in the front. So far it seems to be working well. The basic construction of the wrapper is now done. Yeah! Now I need to sew hook and eyes to the lining and I am contemplating making functional buttonholes to close the outer layer of the wrapper at the front. I have some pretty mother-of-pearl buttons I'd like to use for the front (it will be closed to the waist) but I need to do a little more research to make sure that they are okay to use before I put them on.

Love,

Sarah

Wrapper Progress - Bodice Fronts, Lining and Tie Belt

 I may be posting a little more often over the next few days as I work more on my wrapper. This is more for my benefit than for any assumed interest of my dear readers - for, alas, I often make something and then when I want to make a similar item, I have forgotten how I made the first one!

Since yesterday, I have whipped on the skirt to the bodice back and sides and attached the bodice front pieces. The bodice fronts are cut with the bodice and skirts all in one, eliminating a waist seam for the center front. The bodice fronts are also cut quite wide (half of a 45" panel for each front bodice piece) and the excess width is pleated into the shoulder to create fullness over the bosom and into the skirts. The white cotton lining, however, is cut without the extra width and is cut to end at the waistline. I turned up a narrow casing at the bottom of each front lining for a drawstring to adjust the fit at the waist. Any extra fullness on the drawstring comes only from what would in an ordinary dress be darted, so there will not be much bulk there.

After sewing the center fronts to the wrapper and stitching the shoulder seam, I decided to try it on to see if the fit was working. So far so good! The pleats need to be pressed and I need to turn and stitch the self facings on the front openings but otherwise, I'm thrilled with it!

I cut the neckline down to a V shape and piped the edge. I want the lining to close seperately from the outer layer so clipped the seam allowance of the lining only a few inches up from the center front edge of the bodice. This clipped area I turned to the inside and hemmed down by hand.

Here's a picture showing the lining and the drawstring to adjust the waist. From what I've read, it was more common to have the lining fitted with darts but I chose to use a drawstring for a few reasons. 1. This will not be worn with a corset. I don't know about you ladies, but my body certainly is NOT the same from day to day. Especially during "that time of month" and some days my clothing fits tighter or looser than others. I don't want a closely fitted darted lining if some days I need to let things out a little. Especially when its hot. 2. The drawstring will be very handy if, Lord willing, we are ever expecting again. If that happens, I can even leave the lining unfastened on the inside to allow for belly expansion and use the drawstring to tie the lining shut at the waistline over the bump.

Now I need to work on the sleeves and the skirt hem. . .I should definitely be finished before next weekend! I can't wait to wear it!

Love,

Sarah

Tunics Done and Wrapper Started

The two extra tunics for young Patrick are finished. I do say, this tunic style is by far the quickest and easiest I have ever sewn up. 2 hours per tunic and there ya go. These were finished and delivered yesterday, so hopefully young Master P. will be cool and comfortable during the rest of our hot reenactments. Since he is growing quickly he got an A line style that can be worn til it is hip length. The belt is simply pinned into place at the side seams right now and his mother can adjust the belt to accomodate his waist placement as he grows. This style is great because all that really needs to be fitted is the neckline, shoulders and armscyes. Everything else can be as baggy as you please - it all is pulled in at the waistline with the belt so there is lots of growing room.

The blue one is a solid cotton. Yes, a solid cotton. It is true that solid cottons were not generally used for clothing during the 1860's. However, this particular cotton is very thick and is definitely not your regular run-of-the-mill quilting weight cotton. Since it is an identical hue to a ballgown I made for this young mans mother earlier this year I went with it and for all intents and purposes, this is a fine wool tunic. :) It is trimmed with black braid down the front and at the belt and black decorative buttons and is intended for church and dressier occasions.

The plaid tunic is brown and tan and green and is trimmed up in green. It is a lightweight cotton and will be a good play outfit. The dark plaid will hide stains - I love plaids for this reason! Stains and little boys just seem to go together it seems.

With the tunics out of the way I've started my wrapper. Yay! I have it all cut out and partly sewn together. It will have a V-neck, slightly short, open coat sleeves with loose lace trimmed undersleeves and a decorative white petticoat. Here is a picture of the back and side bodice pieces with the skirt pinned and ready to be whipped to the bottom piped edge of the waistband. I thought I would have to fit a new muslin since this will not be worn with a corset but much to my suprise, my muslin fit very well without a corset! Now that is odd! I must be extra squishy or else I have lost some more weight since the last dress I've made. I think I'll go with the idea I've lost some more weight. It is more appealing to me. :)

 

Love,

Sarah

Tunics and the Boys Who Wear Them

I finished sewing on the trim on the boys new tunics this morning and now all that is left to do is work the buttonholes and attach the buttons in the back. I had hoped to have them done so I could start my wrapper today but I found out I will be making a couple of tunics for a 5 year old boy in our group before our next event so it doesn't matter - the tunics must be done before the wrapper is. I can live without a wrapper if need be.

These tunics are cut on the bias except for the back bodice pieces. I like the visual effect of bias plaid but it wasn't as easy to work with as the usual straight grain pieces I use. The finished garments just don't have that crisp look. But it is a period style and one I had not tried yet. It was a fun project, even if I did run into a few problems when making these up!

Judah's tunic is green and blue plaid and is trimmed with green bias strips and plain gold colored metal buttons. I somehow have my doubts about those buttons - they seem a little too big to me. But Judah wanted some shiny gold buttons like Daddy wears on his uniforms and these were all I had on hand.

David's tunic was, I thought, a red plaid cotton but on closer inspection, stimulated by David's horrified exclamation last night, "Sarah, his tunic is pink!" I determined that the plaid is, instead, a light red. :P It is trimmed similarly to my inpsiration image and has two narrow rows of dark red trim at the hem and at the sleeves. I may put black buttons down the front but I haven't decided yet if it will look right or not.

The style is a basic rather roomy, lightly gathered at the waist bodice with a jewel neck and loose sleeves, a narrow waistband and a skirt that reaches just to the knee. I hope they will last the boys through next summer.

Off to cut out some more tunics. . .

Love,
Sarah

The Great Pre-Event Sewing Spree

After taking the month of July off from reenacting, with the exception of a small (and rather disjointed) living history last weekend, we are gearing up for our fall season - always a particularly busy one. Fall is a great time to have events. I have fond memories of crisp autumn mornings, walking in leather boots on leaf-carpeted paths, a warm wool shawl pulled tight against my shoulders, enjoying the brisk air, the smell of wood smoke and the low murmur of conversation. Dappled sunshine falling through half-bare tree limbs, catching the gold and crimson and warm browns of changing foliage. Birds aloft on their way to southern climates, leaving me, as always, wondrous and pondering at being left behind, and the sheer lowly state of our existence and our perspective from always dwelling on the earth. Oh yes, August thru October are grand months for reenactments although one never knows quite what to expect, weather-wise. 100 degrees? Or 60?

August is most usually a very hot month. Sometimes not quite so hot as June reenactments but hot nevertheless. Because of that I decided to make us some more warm weather items to help us be cool and comfortable during these last weeks of summer. Our next event is two weeks away and I've been working on some light shirts for David, light cotton short sleeve tunics for the boys and a wrapper for me. The wrapper can be worn with or without a corset - and in very hot weather, it is nice to not *have* to wear a corset. It may not be the most *proper* garment to wear in mixed company but after experiencing a week-long rash on my torso from sweating in my corset a whole weekend back in June, it's nice to have an option to not wear a corset if needed.

Malachi needs nothing, but I feel bad leaving him out of my sewing plans. I'm tentatively planning a short sleeve gown with baste-in long undersleeves made of the same fabric so he can wear the gown when it gets cooler out too. I have a pretty black and white print that looks gray from any distance that will look well on him, I think.

So far I've finished David's shirts for our next event. One is a lightweight (almost sheer) cotton with a blue stripe. The other is the dark blue cotton spotted print I've used for the boys tunics and a dress for Malachi. The pattern is a new favorite; the Laughing Moon Mens Victorian Shirt pattern. With some tweaking to make it more appropriate for the 1860's, it's a great pattern. The fit is good, the sizing true and the result is a very sturdy garment. Every seam is completely finished. The shirts I made David are from the "work shirt" option. These shirts have an attached collar made of the same fabric as the shirt. There are other options in the pattern to create a detchable collar with a collar stand that buttons to the shirt so you can change them out when they are soiled. The pattern also contains an option for a pleated-front shirt which is next on my list of shirts for David. . .he has wanted one for years.

I have the boys plaid cotton out and waiting to be cut into. I hope to get a good chunk of work done on them today, if not finish them completely. Then it is on to my wrapper which will be in an olive green, cream and brown stripe. After seeing the beautiful wrapper Mrs. G at http://www.pastoralsymphonyfarm.blogspot.com/ (sorry, blogger is not letting me make links properly right now) just made for her daughter, I am thinking of leaving my wrapper open in front below the waist and making a decorative petticoat to wear under it. We'll see. I think the white petticoat and possibly white undersleeves and, of course, a white collar, would really help soften the somewhat harsh effect of the striped cotton.

And in closing, I'm sorry I have not posted much at all lately - I sometimes get interested in other things and blogging becomes a chore rather than a delight. :P This week I've been working on finishing our bathroom (needs paint, which I'll do this afternoon) and getting Davids shirts done. And making pasta sauce. And canning tomatoes. And rearranging our computer/sewing room. I got rid of a big shelf and gave it to the boys to use for their toys (much handier for them than a basket to keep everything piled in) and decluttered a lot.

And my lovely little sewing companion;

I will try to get pictures of my red and cream 30's dress this weekend. I've had it done for almost two weeks and have worn it several times already - definitely a new favorite!

Love,

Sarah

1930's "Ultra-Modern Magic Bias Slip"

Greeting dear friends;

As this sultry summer weather suffocates the midwest I have found renewed inspiration to continue making 1930's style dresses for summer wear. After I finished my most recent dress, I discovered I needed a slip or underdress to wear beneath it. Since a search through the local thrift shops for a full length slip was fruitless, I began researching 1930's underwear and came across these lovely instructions for a 1930's bias cut slip: http://dressmakingresearch.com/1930s_under_dress.htm

With nothing to loose, I set about making this slip for myself. It is my first ever bias cut garment so I was confounded at first by the odd cutting and sewing insructions. However, I followed them to almost a T, and it produced a very serviceable slip - plus I'll have the satisfaction of knowing it is period correct when I wear it with my dresses! :)

It is odd to wear a bias cut garment. It moves differently on the body and clings and drapes differently. I don't know if I exactly like it, but I will get used to it. The only thing I changed on the directions was the length and drafting of the skirt piece. I made my own piece (very similar however to the pattern instructions) since I didn't want to fool with making the pattern piece as the instructions said. I eyeballed and measured and it came out good enough. :P

The bodice is made of 4 squares of fabric and the instructions called for cutting them out as 15" square. I assumed that since I am probably larger than the average size woman of the 1930's I'd need to make the squares bigger. I originally cut them out at 20" square. Well, that was way too huge due to the way the bias fabric drapes so I ended up using 15" squares after all.

I don't have pictures yet of my new dress but here is a sneak peek: I think this one is my favorite so far. I decided I like the early-mid 30's a lot better than the later years, so tried to go for that look with this dress.

Have a lovely week!

Love,

Sarah

Blue 1930's Summer Gown

I whipped up the skirt to my new dress on Saturday afternoon, while David read and dozed and the boys tried for hours to climb a certain tree outdoors. I put the last few stitches in mid-afternoon, and wore the dress to church yesterday. David took some pictures of it after we got home from church and I must apologize for this first photo. I have such a disdainful, arrogant look. I have no idea why, but I know it is Davids fault. For those of you who know David personally, you will know well that he is quite a tease and he delights in taking candid shots when his subjects are unsuspecting and occupied, for example, with telling a wayward child to not go into the patch of itch-weed. But let us not see the picture of that one.

Since I was pretty much on my own as far as pattern goes with this dress, I did make this up a little different from the inspiration image (see two posts below). The original style looks to be a yoked bodice with minimal fullness above the bust and at the waist, with short fluttery gathered sleeves or a set in short sleeve with a narrow ruffle edging, a smooth set six-gore skirt with sewn in pockets on the front skirt, a just-below-knee-length hem and a tie belt with a bow in the front.

Since the pattern image was from the 1940's, and I prefer the lines of the 1930's, I made up my bodice pretty close to the original image but I lengthened the skirt and tried to get it slimmer at the hipline. I think I need to try this skirt pattern again and take even more fullness from the hip/thigh area and flare it into the hem instead, but, for my first try with a from-scratch drafted skirt pattern, I was pretty happy with the results. For a better line, I think I ought to also lengthen the skirt by 1-2". It is longer than my pink dress I posted about last week but not quite as long as the between calf and ankle length that Nancy Bradfield describes 30's skirt hems in Costume in Detail. Since my figure is not flattered -yet- with smoothly set skirts (durn post-baby belly bulge!), this one has a little fullness at the waist which is gathered to the waistband at the same vertical lines as the gatheres on the yoke and lower bodice. To get slightly off topic, I love gathers. Or pleats. They are so slimming if done very lightly and in strategic places. Gathers lightly skim any lumps or bumps and smooth everything out - and any bulge is visually seen as the effect of the gathers, not physical demerits. :P

Instead of using a tie belt I made a narrow waistband and made a seperate sewn bow (not tied) that is pinned to the waistline of the dress with a big safety pin. This gives the visual appearance of a tied belt, but is far more structured and secure. No worries about twisting or slipping or the bow coming untied!

I did not put pockets on the dress as in the original image. I thought about it and even made a pattern piece for the pockets but in the end decided to leave them off. For one thing, pockets just seem "aprony" to me. This is okay if I were only to wear this dress at home, but I wanted to be able to wear it to church or other places if I want to. I would never wear an apron in public, so I left off the pockets. Another reason is that any aprons I make (and I really do need to make at least one or two new ones) will have pockets, and if I am wearing this dress at home, I will most likely be wearing an apron over it. So pockets on the dress would not really be necessary.

I used a lightweight blue cotton for this dress, which is printed with a viney/feathery design in white. I have no idea if this print is period correct (and I doubt it) but I had 9 yards of this on hand and it has been sitting in my sewing stash for about a year and I needed to start using it up. I used 3 yards for this dress. 6 to go. I love blue though and even if the fabric is not totally right, I still like how it looks. The dress is totally unlined except for the yoke area which is bag lined with white cotton.

Speaking of the yoke. . .I have found I detest square necklines. The original image had a nice square neckline and I thought to myself, how hard can that be? It was very hard. The square kept wanting to stretch, and I had to redo the neckline about three times. The finished shape is not really square like I wanted it to be. V necks or scoop necks or even sweetheart necklines are so much easier to do.

Well that is all I can really say about this dress! It is a simple little style. I did try to do a 30's inspired hairstyle for church. I love the great images and tutorials on ReVampVintage.com so since I have naurally wavy/curly hair, I tried the brush curls. I wetted my hair and combed styling lotion into each section before rolling it up and pinning it. They hardened into steely little sausages and I stupidly did not realize I was supposed to brush them out once the curls were dry. I may try comb waving at some point. But it is not a style I will do every day.

Have a wonderful week!
Love,

Sarah

Because Sometimes I Want Something Completely Different. . .

. . .so this week I made myself a 1930's dress. Going for an O Brother Where Art Thou look.

Last Fall was the Season of Dressing 1820's. I must admit, I fell away from that after Christmas, and slowly, with clothing gained from hand-me-downs and thrift shop buys, began to dress more modernly. I realized (again) I really don't like dressing modernly every day and in the summer, don't really feel like wearing a chemise + corset + petticoats + gown every day. So this summer is the Season of Dressing Vintage. I have a few gowns already made, and now this one, with plans for a few more.

This time around, my attempt at a vintage style went much better. I have always had trouble fitting dresses like this. I have been reading my circa 1970's Vouge Sewing Manual lately and came to realize a few things about fit. #1, the book said to be careful to not overfit a garment. An overfitted garment looks just as unattractive as a baggy one. I think I had that problem since I'm used to fitting something over a corset.

Also, I think hem length is really important with dresses that are not full length. In the sewing book, it said to adjust a hem til it suits you. I realized that on myself, there are only a few places on my leg where a hem is flattering. Just below knee length is NOT, and just above ankle is NOT. So freeing myself to make the hem length suitable for me was really liberating!

I'm really happy with how this dress came out. I've been trying to loose some weight and have lost a little so far, so this dress was a nice reward for that. :) I think I could definitely get used to wearing styles like this on an everyday basis. It's not as frilly and femininely romantic as, say, the 1820's or 30's, but, very comfortable and liveable! And best of all, David loves this style. I don't think I've received so many compliments from him since before we were married. ;)

Next up is a dress based on this pattern image; I think it will be a perfect summer house dress!

Love,

Sarah

Independence Day, 1860's Style

It seems, now, for all festive occasions we have taken to wearing our 1860's clothing. This Independence Day was no different - it was a perfect excuse for dressing up. It was David's idea, actually.

Now, I am a lover of most historic fashion. In fact, the 1860's era I really don't like, fashion-wise. The styles really are not all that flattering and really, compared to other eras, severely plain. Still, I find myself more and more being drawn into it. I feel completely comfortable in my 1860's garb and wearing it is second nature. I actually prefer it to my modern (or semi modern) clothing that I have gone back to wearing on a daily basis. This is not the case, with, say, a regency dress. I guess the feel of other eras is just foreign to me. 1860's fashion is "home". I guess it always will be. I am becoming reconciled. I did not choose the 1860's; rather, it chose me.

Anyway, for the occasion of the 4th we donned our petticoats, tunics, gowns, waistcoats and trousers. David requested I make patriotic cockades for us. Since this was suggested the day before we needed them, my versions are made from modern (poly) grosgrain ribbon. I looked at a few examples of originals in Echoes of Glory and based ours off the least ornate. David contributed two Federal Eagle buttons for the centers. I did not have time to make the boys their cockades but no matter, they would have pulled them off anyway and perhaps done Horrid Things with the straight pins we attached them with!

To make Malachi's gown festive was a simple matter of attaching two red bows at each shoulder.

The older boys wore their blue trousers, their new white-and-black print tunics and caps and a red taffeta necktie. The neckties did not last all day and they did not look extremely well because the tunics lack collars.

I was asked a while ago to do special music at our church for the 4th; and not a common patriotic song. Something a little different. I wracked my brains to think of something but every thought led to a dead end. I looked online, found some incredible very old (mid-to-late 18th century!) patriotic songs but they were chock full of the politics of the day. I tried to write a song of my own but struggled after I got the first verse and chorus down. It just wasn't working. I ended up recruiting David and we gave a rendition of The Battle Cry of Freedom, which was written in 1862 and was Abraham Lincoln's campaign song in 1864 when we he ran for the presidency with Andrew Johnson. David sang it; I accompanied him on my violin.

A very close second in our choice of song though was an old one from my copy of The Sacred Harp. Written in 1798 by Jezaniah Sumner, this song is filled with beautiful imagery and language.

The morning sun shines from the east

and spreads his glories to the west

All nations with his beams are blest

Where'ere the radiant light appears

So science spreads her lucid ray

O'er lands which long in darkness lay

She visits fair Columbia

And sets her sons among the stars

Fair freedom her attendant waits

To bless the portals of her gates

To crown the young and rising States

With laurels of immortal day

The British yoke, the Gallic chain,

Was urged upon our necks in vain

All haughty tyrants we disdain

And shout, Long Live America!

Love,

Sarah