Quilted Sunbonnet in Blue

This was my project the past few days. With the changing of the weather and switching out summer wardrobes for warmer things I have used the opportunity to clean out and declutter. Anything that is in good condition and can be worn next year is saved in our little cupboard under the stairs and all else is donated, either to recycling or to a local non profit thrift shop.

I had a pair of blue striped dress pants that were given to me over the summer when a neighbor moved away. I'm not a dress pants kinda person but I kept them since they were quite nice and fit well and I like to wear actual nice pants (not jeans) when I help at the schools the boys go to. Still, I never did wear them. So I folded them into our donate box but then pulled them out when I realized that the fabric would work really well for a sunbonnet!

Anne has been wanting a new one lately and she didn't like any of the fabrics I have on hand. I didn't consult her for an opinion about the blue striped dress pants but just went ahead and made it. And once the bonnet was done she loved it! Elsa got a matching little bonnet, too. :)

Now; quilted bonnets in the 1860's. Kinda problematic for me. A few years ago I made several quilted sunbonnets but then read that according to the observations of several highly respected collectors, quilted cotton sunbonnets don't seem to make an appearance until post-Civil War. Never say never, you know, but it doesn't seem that quilted sunbonnets were the common thing. There are, however, many examples of quilted winter bonnets, which could also be made in the style of sunbonnets. But plain, everyday, cotton sunbonnets worn outside to keep the sun off? I honestly don't know. Several reputable pattern companies have made sunbonnet patterns with a quilting option but I haven't personally come across documentation of quilted sunbonnets in the pre-1860's or 1860's era yet.

But I did quilt this one. Kinda because I was lazy and was sick of cording (I've done a lot of it this summer) and I was in the mood to quilt, and kinda because this bonnet is meant to be for cooler weather, anyway, since the fabric is a bit heavier. It's a linen/cotton blend and really super nice!

It has a deep shaped rectangular brim, a flattened oval shaped crown and the brim and crown are completely finished separately of the curtain. The curtain was hemmed all round and then cartridge pleated to fit. The two legs from the dress pants had plenty of fabric! If I had made the crown just a bit bigger it would fit an adult size and in that case, I may have kept it for myself. ;)

It was a quick project but nice to have some handwork to keep me busy for a few hours in the evenings. I spent some time with Malachi watching a movie of his choice since his siblings were watching Finding Nemo and he considered that beneath him (his own choice of Spaceballs, was, however, questionably superior).

I am currently having post-Perryville blues. I didn't go but I now wish I had, since it was so close by and I've never been to a national event! And as of yet there is no certain national event for next year scheduled, at least as far as I know. At least its put me in the mood to get a good start on our clothing needs for next year. I need a new cage really bad. That may be next, once Halloween costumes are done.

Love,
Sarah

Elsa Boreen

I can't even remember where we got these little Amish-style dolls. They probably came in a bag of toys from Grandma or maybe a yard sale somewhere. Since the large rag doll I made for Anne has been used so much that the stuffing is starting to come out and the seams tearing apart she has brought these to reenactments a few times this year. Their smaller size is better for her, anyway. (Why did I make her doll so very large? What was I thinking?!) I planned to make new dresses for the dolls over the summer to give them a more period appropriate look but I never got around to it. So, they've been drug out in their poly/cotton Amish-esque attire and became a bit sad and bedraggled.

Anne and I finally sat down and made a dress for her doll and she wanted me to make a face for her and put on some hair. While the finished doll isn't totally appropriate for the Civil War era (hair is quite questionable, and the body shape isn't really representative of 1860's styles, and I'm sure the stuffing is poly/cotton and my embroidery is. . .not great) it looks better at a glance than the Amish doll and I don't feel bad for having Anne bring this along to events to play with.

First we made a little pattern for a fitted bodice and we cut it out of fabric Anne picked from the scrap drawer. She chose the remnants of the purple calico we used for her Boone Frock. I lined the bodice with white cotton for stability.

I truly *hate* sewing tiny things. Oh my gosh. It's so frustrating. I set the sleeves in flat before sewing up the side seams as that was the only way I really could accomplish such small sewing. The neckline is piped but I didn't even attempt to pipe the armscyes. No way.

The skirt was easier. A rectangle gathered to fit.

Inside I sewed some tape over the waist seam to keep it tidy and we put a hook and eye at the neck and waist to shut the dress.

Her hair is made of llama hair that came from a friend of my mother. She raises llamas and gave me a whole bunch of it in various colours. Anne chose this reddish brown as the closest match to her own curls. I twisted the roving into a loose length and then attached it to head by couching it on. The doll originally had a black poly/cotton bonnet superglued to her head so attaching hair was the only method we could use to cover up the glue spots. Original 1860's rag dolls could have painted hair but in our case, painting the head would have still left the glue glaringly apparent.

The embroidery is totally free hand and very, um, creative. Honestly it looks like crap. It's lopsided and the colors don't work the greatest but Anne pronounced it "beautiful" and so I'm going to leave it as it is.

And her name is Elsa, after Anne's favorite Disney princess. She asked me what her middle name ought to be and I gave her some suggestions but she didn't like any of them. Then she asked me to tell her all the girl names I know of. So I began a lengthy and monotonous list. Irene! Anne liked Irene. Then she glanced at the door and changed it to Doreen, which is still a very nice name. Then in a final loving gesture of paternity she changed it to Boreen, because sometimes dolls are boring. So this is Elsa Boreen and I am a grandma.

It will be nice to have a better doll for Anne to bring along next season. Well, if little Elsa Boreen lasts til then. She's currently being played with quite heavily. Rose's doll needs a new dress so that will be forthcoming shortly.

Love,
Sarah

Reenactment at Pioneer Village

Our final reenactment of the season was last weekend and although I'm a little sad that we are done til next spring I could not have asked for a better last event.

A slightly blurry photo takes on a period look if sepia-ized. Thanks Judah!

We had such a great time! I took too many pictures but here are a few of my favorites. Since it was a new place for me and a really lovely setting there were so many picturesque scenes I felt the need to document. I had my camera out of my pocket way too often.

Four of them fit in that tree!

We didn't camp but since the site was pretty close by we were able to travel up both days. Note for next time: Camp.

David and Judah share a brotherly joke by the covered bridge

Camping with a lot of kids seemed overwhelming to me at the beginning of this year. But truthfully it would have made things much easier. Having a "home" to retire to when children get cranky and need naps is such a nice thing to have. We set up a fly and had chairs and a blanket for the babies to play on but it just isn't the same as tenting. Cold picnic fare just isn't the same (and to the older boys not as satisfying) as a simple meal cooked over the fire.

Benjamin hunting with his stick

If there's a fence, it has to be climbed!

The weather was great; a little warmer than average for late September but still gloriously sunshiney and not too hot. The kids soon discarded their stockings and shoes and ran off to explore.

Rose at the entrance of the tiny cemetery. I love the rock walls around here - when
I was a little girl in Rhode Island and Connecticut most of the fences were of stone.
I feel like I'm home again.

The village houses a collection of historic buildings that are meant to be instructive to the visitors about early American life. It makes a pretty place for an event and the park interpreters had many of the buildings open so we could see inside. While most are pre-Civil War style the ambiance was very homey and pleasant.

Her daddy asked her what was growing in the garden. She replied "A lot of great weeds!"

Rose tries on her brothers cap.

The reenactors put on several skirmishes for the spectators over the weekend and enjoyed an 1860's style baseball game each day. No gloves!

The guys, blue and gray, set aside political differences for an afternoon of fun.

Second base!

Anne is my wild child and she doesn't know the meaning of the word stranger. To her, everyone is a friend waiting to be met. I spent a lot of my time following her little skipping figure as she went from one place to the next, talking to whoever would listen (and most listen with good nature and kindness to a sparkling-eyed, curly haired little devil) and taking pictures whenever she begged the camera from me.

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Two more of Anne's friends

I was lazy on Sunday and put the babies in their Boone frocks since I didn't feel like ironing their petticoats early that morning.

We spent a pleasant time in one of the homes listening to music. Rose especially enjoyed the hammered dulcimer.

Malachi's favorite site was a rather dilapidated cabin set away back from the main village a bit. He spent most of the day there with another little boy he befriended. On Sunday Malachi complained about the green suit I made him earlier this year as it has grown tight around the waist and around the knees. I let him wear Judah's extra set of trousers and he was ridiculously pleased. I guess this means that his next outfit will be a menswear style. . .sigh. I will put the green suit away for Benjamin to grow into. My little boy is getting too big too fast!

The cabin is supposed to be a recreation of a late 18th century style cabin.

A nearby stone springhouse would have kept food cold and helped to preserve meat, vegetables and dairy products. 

We geared up again for another baseball game!

The porch of the store across the street was a good place to sit in the shade to watch the game. 

Judah struck out once, but hit a good ball every other time he was up to bat!

After the game it was late afternoon and time for everyone to go. What a great weekend! It was Rose's first event after learning to walk really well. She's so short and teeny it still is a bit of a shock for me to see her bitty little self walking around. She seems too little to walk! So cute! 

Love,

Sarah

Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #9 - Historicism

This months challenge was historicism, which both excited me and dismayed me. Recreate a historic garment that is itself inspired by fashions from a previous era of history. My mind, of course, immediately flew to regency era fashion, which was heavily inspired by Grecian clothing. Then the 1910's saw a reinterpretation of both regency and grecian style clothing. It's kinda fun to look through the past 500 years and see the truth in the saying that everything comes full circle. It does! There are several silhouettes of fashion that you see repeat themselves time and again but that subject is far too large to even begin talking about right now.

Anyway, I needed to fit my already planned sewing projects into this category somehow. Since my sewing this month has mostly been fantasy costume I had to really think about  my new 1860's dress and figure out if the style could plausibly be inspired by any other historic era. So I began looking. 

The most defining feature of 1860's womens clothing is almost certainly the hoop skirt. This type of support structure was not something new, however. Other eras of historic fashion saw various interpretations of what sprang up as the late 15th century farthingale. I am not at all very studied in the fashions of the Elizabethan period but a basic article can be found here: History of the Spanish Farthingale. The 1860's was just another take on the basic concept of a petticoat with some kind of stiffening sewed into it to distend the skirts of the dress. 

The 1860's not only saw the popularity of the hoop but also of large, wide sleeves. Looking at the fashions of the time of the original farthingale you also see large sleeves that almost look as though they could be copied exactly from images of the 1860's! I was amazed at how closely some sleeve styles were replicated. Not only were there puff sleeves in both historical eras, but also the more slenderly cut coat sleeves, as well as open sleeves, slashed sleeves and many hybrids. 

It's possible to draw many more parallels between 1860's fashion and various other eras - hairstyles, accessories, etc - but the main silhouette of a tight waist and bodice, large skirts and large sleeves seem to be quite similar between the 1860's and late 15th/early 16th century. 

Despite wanting to appear ladylike and elegant, this is my usual look as an event progresses - the basic day dress has the skirts pinned up, the sleeves rolled up and an apron added so that physical labor is much easier to accomplish.

What the Item Is: 1860's Day Dress

The Challenge: Historicism

Fabric/Materials: Cotton for main fabric, cotton for lining and pocket

Pattern: My own

Year: Early to Mid 1860's

Notions: Hooks and eyes

Hours to Complete: About 12

First Worn: This past weekend at a small reenactment

Total Cost: Under $25, since the fabric was a bargain find and the lining, facing and pocket came from leftover scraps from other projects.