Civil War Sheer Summer Wrapper

While this summer has not been as sweat drenchingly hot as usual Illinois summers, it has been hot enough. While I have mostly managed to keep the air conditioner off this year, there have been a few days that I have succumbed to shutting the windows and turning it on for a day or two. I did so, in fact, tonight. Tomorrows heat index is to top one hundred. Thankfully the rest of the week is supposed to be nice and cool!



I have been sewing a lot and just finished this 1860's wrapper. I had so much fun making it. I love the unique detailing on these garments and the way they function. Its just cool.



This one is made in a very sheer cotton plaid in shades of purple and grey. The colors remind me of second mourning. Of course, they are good colors for everyday wear also.



I made it with a drawstring at the waist of the cotton lining. Many wrappers were made with fitted linings, but it is nice to have the extra adjustability with a drawstring lining. This enables you to wear the wrapper with or without a corset and for maternity when expandable clothes are a necessity!



The skirts are gauged and whipstitched to a partial waistband.



And the sleeves are puff sleeves mounted on a short lining with full gathered loose lower sleeves. I think the sleeves are my favorite part!



I made a turned hem on this one instead of using a hem facing.



Its sized to fit a 46"-48" bust and up to a 40" waist. I have listed it for sale on eBay for anyone needing a very lightweight and comfortable dress during these last months of summer:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=191256972407&alt=web

Love,
Sarah

Victorian Wheel Cap Tutorial

As promised, here is the tutorial for the wheel caps I posted a few months ago. This style is easily adaptable to any size. The dimensions given here make a cap with a 23" band, which fits an average adult (22") head. For a child's size, take 1" off the band.



For fabrics I use wool for the outer layer and cotton or linen for the lining. You could also use silk for the lining. You do not need much fabric - I use scraps - but 1/2 yard of fabric should be plenty, with scraps leftover.

To begin, wash and dry (if necessary),and press your fabrics. You will cut the following pieces:

From fashion fabric:

- 2 circles 13" in diameter
- 2 brim pieces, cut from 2 rectangles 3" x 8" with rounded corners
- 1 band, 24" x 3"

Cut an identical set from your lining fabric, minus the brim.



Take one circle of fashion fabric and one of lining. These will become your lower crown. You will cut a circle from the center of each to create two donut-shaped pieces. To do this, I fold each circle in half and mark in 1.75" from the edge all around the curved edge: (if you are making a smaller sized band than the 23" finished band in this tutorial, you will want to measure in 2" or so in from the curved edge. Basically; make a smaller hole!)



Cut along the line you just marked.



Do the same for the other circle. Your pieces should now look like this:



You will now sew the brim. Put the two brim pieces right sides together, and using a 1/2" seam allowance sew around the curved edge. Trim seam.



Turn brim right sides out.



Press well, and set aside.



Fold the band and band lining in half, right sides together, and stitch the short ends using a 1/2" seam.



Press seams open.



Find the center of each band by turning bands right side out and positioning the seam at one short end. Press well, marking the center front of each band by an ironed crease.



Markers the center of the brim with a pin and match brim center to band center front.



Right sides together, pin brim to band.



Right sides together, pin lining band to band, sandwiching the brim between the lining and fashion fabric band.



Sew around the edge with a 1/2" seam.



Fold out the lining.



Press the seam between the lining band and fashion fabric band open.



Fold up the lining to the inside and press.



The finished band!





Place the lower crowns on top of the remaining circles, right sides together, and sew along the outer edge with a 1/2" seam.



Turn the fashion fabric crown right sides out, but leave the lining wrong side out.



Insert the lining into the crown.



Pin crown to band, leaving band lining free and easing curves.



Sew crown to band with a 1/2" seam allowance.



Press seam towards lower crown. Press up 1/2" on raw edge of band lining.



Fold up lining to cover seam allowance. Pin and slip stitch into place.



Press all seams well. To finish the cap, if desired, top stitch along seamlines for added stability.



The finished cap!



Love,
Sarah

My Faire Garb

For Faire this year Peter and I volunteered to help. It was out first year to do so and I'm very glad we did. After a few years going to spectate, it is nice to get involved in the mechanisms of the event a bit. It gives you an entirely different perspective and makes you appreciate the sheer amount of work it takes to put an event on.

Our job was to stand near the park entrance and ask people how they heard about the faire to aid the event in advertisement for next year. This was a lot of fun and more often than not we found ourselves chatting with people for several minutes. We talked with hundreds of people and made some new friends.

This year I decided to just wear what I felt like wearing since the faire is not very authenticity minded. I wanted a chance to wear the 18th century stays I made last fall so this was a perfect opportunity!

I paired it with my linen medieval shift, a few petticoats with the top layers pinned up, a pouch, and a "pirate" style head scarf.

It was a cool and comfortable outfit to wear and I was surprised to receive so many compliments on it. I did feel very guilty about not portraying a specific era, but, it was all good. And a great delight to finally wear my stays!

The event seems to be getting bigger every year. I'm very glad, as I saw and heard first hand today just how special it is to so many people, young and old alike.

Peter did wear sunglasses, alas. But he kept them hidden beneath his hat most of the day.

Properly exhausted now. At the end if a day it is a priceless luxury to curl up in bed with a very fat sleeping baby. (He is over 12 pounds already!) Love my little man.

Happy summer to you all!

Love,
Sarah

Peter's Faire Garb

Once upon a time a boy named Peter met a girl named Sarah, and they became friends. That is the short story and there is no fairytale end to it, because they don't believe in fairy tales and Peter has a strong objection to being called a fairy.

The only ripple in this happy sea of friendship was Peter's appalling lack of appreciation for authentically reproduced historical clothing. He would often break Sarah's heart by failing to notice or appreciate hand made buttonholes and top stitching and would enrage her by pairing a 200 year old style garment with modern shorts, or sunglasses, or flip flops.

But any good friendship is about compromise and respect and acceptance so when Peter's house burned down and he lost his garb, Sarah made him new ones that were "piratey" and did not push her agenda of being historically attired. And thus peace was maintained.

So, dear readers, this post is *not* about reproducing a specific style or time period but about making a simple and inexpensive outfit that is great for "Faire Wear".

I started off with a simple square cut shirt that is semi 18th century (indeed this method of cutting shirts was around for a very long time prior to then, as well). Instead of a button or tie at the neck I hammered metal grommets into the slit opening for a lace up closure. This seemed to be more "piratey".

The shirt was made from a thrifted cotton sheet, rather heavy with a tight weave. It was completely machine constructed which made it a very fast project. All seams were felled for a neat and smooth interior and for boosting longevity of the garment.

The sash was made from a thrifted red tablecloth. It is simply a strip of fabric about 130" long and 12" wide that I hemmed on all sides. There are many methods to wrapping and tying a sash but here it is simply wrapped twice around the torso and folded and knotted at the right hip. Peter will supply his own belt and sword.

The last thing to make was a waistcoat, or vest. I originally wanted to make a jerkin styled garment but settled with Peter on a simpler, longer style (loosely) inspired by Jack Sparrows waistcoat in Pirates of the Caribbean. It is semi-18th century in feel and made from some small fabric lengths found at the thrift store.

The fronts are cut long and slightly cut away. The back is shorter. There are two pockets at hip length on the front.

The back is adjusted for fit with a lace up belt.

The back and lining was made from a thrifted cotton sheet in sage green. Altogether everything cost under $10!

Hopefully this won't be paired with sunglasses but if it is, it is no great travesty to history. Debut tomorrow - hopefully it all works well for Mr. Peter.

Love,
Sarah