Thursday, May 13, 2010

Cinnamon Rolls and A Red Dress

There is nothing quite like finishing a new frock, only to discover that you must pick it apart and remake it. Thankfully, because of my Esteemed Husband, I am quite used to taking apart a garment that is not quite right and remaking it to very particular specifications. Sigh. This time it was the bodice that was giving me problems. I used the paper pattern I traced from my fitted toile a few months ago, but added 2" extra to the front edge to make a turned facing. Well. When I finished the dress and tried it on yesterday I found that I hadn't needed to add the 2" extra. I had already included enough for a turned facing when I traced my toile. The finished bodice was too large across the chest, causing ghastly vertical folds of fabric. The waistline was also too large. So I had to take the bodice apart and cut down the front openings, take off the collar, redo the neckline piping and take off the whole skirt and reset it and cut the waistband down a bit.
Still, there is a secret, wild, exultant joy that comes with remaking something. A feeling of intense satisfaction of knowing a garment will be made right and will be finished instead of tossed into a deep dark closet with other projects of uncertain success. I still have to finish adding (again) the hooks and then I need to work buttonholes and make covered buttons for the cuffs and add a wee frill to each sleeve cap but that should be the work of an hour, perhaps. It will be done today. Which is good, since I need to wear it this weekend.
I also need to make a double batch of cinnamon rolls to take with us. Several dear commenters mentioned the cinnamon rolls I talked about briefly in a recent post. Here is my favorite recipe for cinnamon rolls. (And I've tried lots!) The original recipe calls for making the dough in a bread machine and cutting them into mini cinnamon rolls. I always double the recipe and make big size cinnamon rolls instead and, of course, I make the dough the good old fashioned way since I do not have a bread machine.

Maple Cinnamon Rolls
  • 1 and 1/3 c. milk

  • 2/3 c. maple syrup (note: due to sometimes not having enough grocery money to spend on real maple syrup, I've also used the fake Aldi stuff and though the flavor is not as wonderful as the real thing it is still very good).

  • 2/3 c. soft butter

  • 2 eggs

  • 1 1/2 tsp. salt

  • 6 c. flour

  • 2 pkg. yeast (I buy yeast in bulk, so um, dump in what looks to be about right) :)

Filling:

  • 1 c. packed brown sugar

  • 4 TB flour

  • 3 TB cinnamon

  • 1 stick cold butter

Icing:

  • 1 cup powdered sugar

  • 3 TB butter, melted

  • 3 TB maple syrup

  • 1 to 2 TB milk

Method:

In a saucepan, warm milk, syrup and butter til butter is melted - do NOT boil. Cool to a warm temperature beneficiant to yeast (I do this by feel; there MUST be a scientific temperature for putting yeast into liquid but I do not know what it is). When nicely warm to the touch, put in yeast.

Stir in eggs and salt. Mix in 3 cups of flour. Add enough remaining flour to make a stiff dough. Turn out onto board or floured counter and knead for 10 minutes. Pat dough into ball, place on greased platter and cover with a towel or plastic wrap. Let rise for 1 hour.

Punch dough down and divide into two. Roll each ball into a rectangle, appx. 12" x 18" (very appx.!) Combine filling ingredients in bowl, cut in butter to make a crumbly mixture. Spread filling evenly over rectangles of dough. Roll up each rectangle into a fat log.Cut each log in half, then cut each half into 5 rolls. (I know it makes a weird number of rolls - 20 - but it is what works best for me). Place 15 rolls on a baking sheet. The remaining 5 rolls put into a seperate baking sheet. Cover and let rise for forty minutes.
Preheat oven to 375. Bake rolls for 25-35 minutes or until golden brown on top. Remove from oven and top with a clean towel. (if you don't do this the rolls will get hard on top). Let rolls cool beneath towel while you make the icing.

Combine the confectioners sugar, melted butter and syrup in a bowl. Add in enough milk for desired consistency. Spread over warm rolls and let rolls cool, uncovered, completely. When cool put into an air tight container.

These will be our breakfasts this weekend! We are going cooler-less. :) David finally got fed up with hauling it.

Love,

Sarah

Saturday, May 1, 2010

A Springtime Ball Gown Costume

Happy May!! :D

It is pleasant to sew in the afternoons, though with spring coming upon us it is getting harder and harder to stay indoors! Still, it is necessary to get projects finished up. And this week we have had a colder spell and what with that and the wind it has been no very great loss to spend a few hours each day in the sunshine of the west bedroom - a.k.a. the "office/sewing room".

The past few weeks I've been working with a lovely lady who came to me with a finished skirt, a bolt of fabric and a desire for a ballgown bodice to wear to dances. The person who made her skirt was not able to make her bodice also so we had a few sessions of fittings, sketching and deciding on styles. In the end, we made two bodices that can be worn with the same skirt. One has a shallow scoop neckline with puff sleeves and the other has a squared neckline with loose bell sleeves. The lady desired her sleeves to be about elbow length. The fabric is a beautiful teal colored material with satin stripes and a geometric pattern of fern-like sprigs. The finished bodices and the skirt are more "costume" than "reproduction clothing" but I have enjoyed making some of these types of gowns for several local ladies. There are several local dance performance groups where the goal is a lovely appearance and good dancing. Strict authenticity not required. :)
Believe it or not, I ended up using Sense and Sensibility's Romantic Era Gown pattern for these bodices. It is against copyright laws to use most commercial patterns in paid dressmaking but Mrs. Chancey has graciously given permission for home dressmakers to use her patterns to make clothing to sell without a licensing fee. Sense and Sensibilty patterns are usually pretty good with sizing (the only issues I've had before with their gown patterns is a gappy neckline, but I think that is a personal fitting issue rather than anything wrong with the pattern itself!) and are a good base to start from when you don't want to drape a pattern from scratch. I cut the pattern for a back closing bodice and added a lot of extra length the front bodice so we could make a pointed front. With a combination of draping and drafting and an hour or so of fitting we came up with a good base pattern. Instead of using darts to fit the bodice I drafted the darts into a single princess seam that comes from the neckline down across the point of the bust to the waist. This helps create a very smooth fitted line, helps accentuate the feminine curve of the bosom and helps give the fashionable appearance of a tiny waist. As usual the bodices are flatlined with white cotton and the fronts are boned.

The puff sleeve bodice is trimmed simply with an airy ruffling of lace around the sleeve cuffs and also around the neckline. A matching teal satin ribbon drawstring is run through eyelets in the neckline ruffle to draw it up against the skin to prevent accidental glimpses down the front of the bodice! This particular bodice is my favorite. It is so sweet and old fashioned and feminine.
The other bodice is more smooth and tailored in line. The sleeves fit rather closely around the upper arm and then flare out in a graceful curve at just below elbow level. The trim is also more sleek and tailored than the other bodice. Flat lace and braid trim is applied around the neckline, sleeve edges and along the front princess seam lines.
I think this lady will be quite eye catching in this lovely color! It is the perfect fabric and hue for springtime dances, I think.

Love,

Sarah

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Keokuk, IA Civil War Weekend

'Twas a wet day yesterday but one that found us arising early and shephering the little ones into the car, still yawning and sleepy eyed, and beginning a very long drive to just "over the river" to the city of Keokuk.
It was a little disappointing to not make it out for the entire weekend, espcially when we heard, once we arrived, from more dedicated campers, that the prior evening had been fine and lovely. However, it did rain quite a bit while we were there so I suppose it is a good thing we did not take all our canvas out to have to pack up and haul away while wet.

We enjoyed ourselves for the time that we were there. The last time I was in Keokuk was 2005 - the year I met David - and so it was nice to be back once more. The park is lovely, though in the middle of the city, and with the gray foggy mists that gently settled on the damp grasses, the trees, whose wet bark was made darker by contrast with the green of leaves, it was very beautiful and romantic and dream-like.
The remainder of our medical unit, the 108th IL, also came up just for the day.We walked the paths, browsed the sutler tents and at last we settled down in a pretty spot near the outdoor stage, from whence came jubilant and exciting music from the 33rd IL band and the boys roamed the low "ditches" and played the leaves and with rocks and sticks they found. The occasional mud puddle was a delightful thing for them. For lunchtime we spread a little picnic we had packed and ate by the shores of a small and pretty pond. We had, in the words of the boys "Sausert" (sausage) and cheese and bread with cups of water and for dessert shortbread cookies which are wonderful since they do not stain clothing. It was simple and satisfying fare and easy to clean up afterwards, just requiring a shaking out of cups and a brushing off of crumbs. No sweeping or dish washing necessary! :)
My beautiful white and green cup, just minutes before Malachi dashed it to pieces on the concrete
The boys behaved themselves very well, except for Malachi who is not yet very accustomed to walk in the same direction as us, nor does he think hand holding a very desirable or useful practice. He was carried half the time by me and the other half of the time he walked - whether his desired direction was also our desired direction was entirely a matter of chance, you know. Since we really had nothing in particular to do or anywhere in particular to go, we enjoyed slowly meandering about. (In retrospect, my bum-pad seems a bit. . .too. . .ah, bummy. I look like I weigh 250 lbs. here! And slat bonnets are terribly unflattering though they ARE practical)
We met and talked to lots of lovely people; we saw a beautiful brand-new darling little baby boy reenactor, we learned how to bake bread in a dutch oven using coals from a sweet gentleman from Columbia, MO, we saw a photo of an Iowa officer who looked uncannily like David, we got ginger bread men from a friendly group of LDS members who shared with us about the historic site of Nauvoo, closely located, we got striped candy sticks for the boys and had our picture taken more times than I can remember. (As an aside, I used to never get my photo taken when I was still single nor before we had children; but now we are very popular! This strange occurance seems to be the effect of three certain small boys in our possession).
David and Judah hit the tree with a bit of stick they found by the pond
In the afternoon the battle was to take place. Since the rest of our medical unit had already left David was asked to be acting surgeon for the 108th IL. He carried his doctor bag and left for the field of battle along with the troops while the boys and I more slowly made our way up the hill to where the fray was to take place. We never quite made it all the way up. Another ditch was discovered, full of leaves and puddles and sticks, quite tempting to small boys. Malachi ran towards it as fast as his fat be-stockinged and booted legs could carry him and tumbled headlong into it, falling with force upon a soft bed of dead leaves. He was stunned at first, though not hurt - just suprised that he had fallen!

Some dear friends of mine - Van and Katherine - were at this point seen approaching. They made their way to us and we spent the duration of the battle in conversation with Katherine and I at times making dashes for a wayward child. In the midst of the booming cannon, Malachi fell asleep.



Me and a very tired Munchkie-Poo - don't you love his delighted expression? :)

After the battle David went back to the field hospital and assisted with surgical demonstrations. It began to rain again - heavier, this time - so we soon left. As soon as we crossed the Mississippi River back into Illinois the rain became furious in its violence and for the next hour we slowly crept along the highway in the nearly blinding precipitation. After we crossed the Illinois River, however, the rain abated and we arrived home just as the sun was setting in a glorious sky of gold and blue and purple and gray.

Now I am trying hard to get the mud stains out of our clothes. I'm so glad I dressed the boys in their play outfits instead of their dressier tunics! The dark blue and white spotted fabric really hides stains very well and I think with a thorough washing and a pressing once they are dry they will be as good as new again. All of our white underwear is in a sad state though. The dirt seems to have a very reddish tinge to it which bespeaks clay and I don't know if that will ever completely come out. My new petticoats too! Sigh. But, it is at least an authentic stain and is really a part of the whole experience!

Love,

Sarah

Sunday, April 18, 2010

A Federal Officer Sack Coat

I have again been rather negelctful of my blog as of late. The reason being - life has taken a busy turn lately, it seems. This past week was hectic. For those of you who are always going different places and rarely home my "busy" week would probably seem laughably pathetic to you. But for me, someone who usually is home except for church and grocery shopping, it was a busy week. I have discovered anew the very true words made famous by Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz. There is no place like home.

Truly there is nothing like having sweet places of repose and rest to sink into after a long day away. Small circles of warm lamp light; the just after sunset breeze ruffling the white curtains, wafting scents through the room of fresh cut lilacs, the book Rainbow Valley, a cup of tea. Loved ones near, the murmur of low voices. A tiny voice breaking out into a spontaneous version of "A Froggie Went A-Courtin'" with great emphasis on the "Uh-Huh" part of the chorus. Home is indeed the best place in the world. The feeling of tiny fingers curled around your own, a baby boy asleep against your shoulder, his little arm clasped around your neck.
One reason I have been busy is our upcoming first reenactment of the season which is next weekend! I thought I had a good grasp on everything I needed to do but now am finding that I still have a lot of little things left to do, and those little things do add up!

My last big project I finished up yesterday. It is my only big project for David this year (at least, he says!) and includes new federal staff officer trousers and a federal officer sack coat. For most of you, this is probably not that exciting but I did enjoy making the trousers and coat this past week. I have made so many sets of trousers for David before that these went together in a day and a half and the coat took just four days to complete. I am fascinated by the uniforms of both the Federal and Southern Army and I really do enjoy making these things, though they are not very pretty or girly. :P
One area that officer sack coats differ from enlisted issue sack coats is in length. Regular sack coats had just 4 buttons and officer coats boasted 5 buttons and extra length. They could also include details not found on enlisted sack coats like extra pockets, different collar styles and could closely resemble civilian wear of the day. Officers did not have their clothing issued to them but, from what David tells me and what I have read, were issued a clothing allowance with which to purchase their different uniform parts. Thus, a LOT of variation can be found in extant original officer uniforms since they were made by personal tailors and could include variations based on the desires of the officer in question. David personally likes to stick pretty closely to regulations but this was not always the case in the period. David's coat is made from dark blue wool flannel from Wambaugh and White and his trousers made from dark blue kersey from the same company. The body is lined with black cotton sateen and the sleeves with white pima cotton. The buttonholes were done with silk twist from B. Black and Sons. The pattern was Charlie Childs federal fatigue blouse pattern, altered for length. I also had to make some adjustments at the side seams and shoulders and neckline to fit David's particular figure. He wanted six pockets so he has two inner pockets sewed into the lining and four outer pockets. I am pretty happy with how it came out although, as always, there is room for improvement. David did complain less about this particular coat than he has about previous coats. His only gripes were the gathers in the sleeves (he likened them to the wide puffy sleeves popular in the 1980's, even though many pictures of original coats depict light gathers or easing in the sleeve heads) and the pockets, the edges of which to don't remain together when the coat is worn. (although the pictures of the original coat I was copying a lot of details off of had slumpy pockets too!)
This week is petticoat-week and hopefully next weekend I'll have some good pics from our first event to share!

May you all have a lovely spring evening, as we are having here!
Love,

Sarah

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Civil War Ball Gown & Simplicity 2881

On Palm Sunday, my friend Nona came over and asked me if I thought I could make her a ball gown to wear for a performance dance on the 17th of this month, in remembrance of Abraham Lincoln’s Death Day. She brought with her pattern, fabric and a notebook full of ideas. Together we planned a beautiful dress for her to wear, and two days later she came over for her first fitting. Today I finally finished “The Dress” which has somewhat overtaken my life lately! I used Simplicity 2881 for the pattern and did not alter it much from the original design. This specific pattern is one designed by the lovely Kay Gnagney of Originals-by-Kay. It is a lovely style for the 1860’s. It features a princess seam bodice, double-puff sleeves, bretelles, a full skirt with decorative tabs and elegant trimmings.

The pattern calls for silk taffeta, but due to budget constrains (silk can be expensive!) Nona purchased royal blue satin instead. The accent fabric is a matching royal blue velvet that was recycled from an old underskirt of hers. The lace around the neckline and sleeves was also recycled from another skirt she used to wear. The lining for the bodice and sleeves is white cotton. I followed the pattern fairly well (for me) but did make a few alterations. For instance, I did not use the skirt pieces guide given in the pattern but cut and sewed three panels (50” wide) together for the skirt and balanced the length at the waist. Mid-19th century skirts are so simple to make, they do not really require a pattern at all. I did not really follow the instructions. If you have a basic knowledge of mid-19th century construction techniques it is not hard. It becomes ingrained in your mind so that you do it automatically. But for basics; the bodice is flatlined, the seams sewn and pressed to one side (not open). The opening is pressed under to create a self facing and stitched down. The raw edges on top and bottom are bound or piped, and the sleeves set in (usually with narrow self fabric piping in this seam). I also covered every seam in the bodice with tape to finish it off nicely and the front seams are boned.This pattern seems to run large. We cut the bodice (for a mock up) in a size 18, which seemed to be the correct size based on the measurements we took. However, it was so large that even when it was pinned closed in the back it still slipped right off! The pattern says that 6” of wearing ease are added above the natural measurements of the person it is meant for! That is WAY too much wearing ease! We took the pattern in a lot and then I traced off the fitted pattern onto fresh paper. (ALWAYS trace off a pattern, once you have nicely fitted it, so you don’t have to go through the inconvenience of such a fitting again unless you change size). It was a little tricky working with the slippery satin and velvet. I had to sew much of the dress by hand with it lying flat on a table so it wouldn’t shift around. The finished dress doesn’t look as “crisp” as the dress on the pattern cover (made of silk taffeta) but well, satin is a slippery, soft fabric. For decoration I sewed blue bead fringe to the outer edges of the bretelles (which are of velvet, bound in satin), around the sleeve hems and across the neckline. The same bead fringe also is sewn to the bottom of each tab. The tabs are reversible and sewn to a separate waistband than the main skirt, so it can be worn in a variety of ways. One side is satin and the other velvet, with the gathered “petals” on the velvet side made of satin and on the satin side made of velvet. For additional trim I sewed on the satin and velvet covered buttons to correspond to the pattern. Around the edge of the neckline lace I sewed tiny glass seed beads and ran a blue satin ribbon through it to draw it up when it is worn. Today I sewed on the last petals and made the head-dress. The headdress is made like a decorated hairnet but is constructed of slightly different materials, to match the dress. Using small scraps of satin and velvet I made seven rosettes, which were sewn to a wired base. Inside each rosette I attached a blue silk flower and a tiny blue silk ribbon rosebud. The hairnet part is made of fine black net and has an elasticized bottom edge for ease of wearing.
It is very nice to have this project done! I am really happy with how it came out and how nice the pattern was to work with. All the pieces fitted together very well and created a very lovely, accurate silhouette for this time period. I especially like the bretelles - very graceful! I can’t wait to see my lovely friend in this; she is quite fair complected with very long, very dark hair so you can imagine how beautiful she will look. : ) Now the ball gown bug has bit me and I have been shopping around online a bit for silk fabric. I have always wanted a pale pink or pale yellow silk taffeta evening dress or ball gown, either solid or in a large plaid. Pink and yellow seem to be hard colors to find. Not that I need a ball gown. We don’t go to events that have balls. Most are just outdoor dances or, at most, a barn-dance where a day dress is far more appropriate to wear. Still! One can plan. . .in the meantime, I'm very excited about the straw bonnet I just ordered from Mrs. Parkers Millinery! Now THAT is a practical thing to have! :)
Love,
Sarah

Friday, March 19, 2010

A Gown and Jacket

After last months mad rush to get projects done, I have been rather indolent this month. I still have things to get done but I don’t really want to work on them. I have been having sewing burn out. The two projects I’ve managed to get done this week have taken me far longer than they should. I sew a seam one day, cut out a sleeve the next. My passion has been removed to Spring Cleaning. So the sewing machine stands quiet most of the time. I did joyfully scrub the basement floor in the laundry room today with soap and gleefully rinsed it with bucketfuls of bleach water. It smells so clean now. It made me happy.

Anyway, let me introduce you to. . .Malachi’s Leftover Outfit.

This little outfit was made using up the leftover fabric from the older boys’ tunics. The little jacket is made from scraps of the green linen, and the gathered dress is made from the (great quantity of) leftover blue and white cotton.
Not that Malachi needed a new outfit. He is already well outfitted from what Judah had last year and from the things that he himself wore last year and still fit this year. But still, who can resist making a baby dress? Especially when I stop to consider that this may well be the last year I will have a baby in dresses for a while. We currently have no new babies on the way and next year Malachi will be old enough for tunics.
I sewed him up a few new undershirts over the past week or two. His undershirts from last fall were a bit tight in the arms so these new ones were made nice and roomy. They go down to below his knees in length and I think they will last him a very long time! With his undershirt and drawers (which you can’t see, due to the length of the skirt) he is wearing a strapped petticoat I made last year for Judah. It’s a little big. I need to shorten the length of the shoulder straps but that is an easy fix. The wide waistband is roomy, and there is a lot of overlap on the back buttoned opening, so it can be made even bigger if necessary. Malachi seemed to like skirts. Floofery! Frillies! Handfuls of crisp clean cloth to grab onto and wave around! He has a separate button on petticoat that goes with this strapped petticoat. I also made that last year for Judah but honestly, we ended up hardly using it. It kept wanting to come unbuttoned from the strapped petticoat and the strapped petti gives a nice amount of “pouf” even without the extra petticoat buttoned on. The dress is a basic gathered style. I love these little dresses but feel like I’m cheating somehow when I make this style, since they are just SO easy to sew up and very quick, too. The short sleeves were cut with a curved hem and then drawn up at the shoulder. You can see his undershirt sleeve peeking out from beneath but oh well, that is a period look. :P The skirt has a 75” sweep and is gathered tightly to a 1” wide waistband that is piped on both sides. Inside the waistband is faced with white cotton. The neckline is also piped. To close the dress, there is a cloth covered button at the waist and at the neck in the back. The dress really is a bit too big, all around. But I made it that way on purpose. After three children, I have learned to make things Big. When little David was a baby I made his dresses to fit him exactly as he was a the time I was making them. He only got to wear each gown a time or two before he outgrew them, but since I didn’t have any other children to clothe I enjoyed making him new dresses before each event. When Judah came along, I began to make things a little bit big, but not too much. If they got a few months worth of wear out of them I was happy. Now with Malachi, I’ve learned. It’s Got To Be Big. The clothes I am making this spring are intended to last at least until next spring, if not longer. Hopefully.The little jacket took me the longest time to make. It is a simple style and is unlined yet it took me three weeks before I finished it. Why? I don’t know. I had just enough linen left to cut a small coat. I originally made three quarter length bell sleeves to go with it. For some reason though, the sleeve head came out too small to be set nicely into the armscye. I don’t know why this happened. But it did happen. I despaired. I went through four sleeve evolutions before I came across the KayFig pattern for a toddler dress and coat, and the little coat on the pattern cover has short ruffly sleeves! I decided that it was fate, and so I put a short ruffled sleeve on the coat.The coat was meant to almost meet in front, and it does, when laid flat, but on Malachi there was more of a gap across the chest than I had intended. I might put a concealed hook and eye at chest level, to bring the edges of the coat together in the front at that point. We’ll see. Some may think me strange, but I think I will have Malachi use this for his Easter outfit. I think it will be adorable. The boys will wear their green tunics and if I get my bum in gear I want to finish my sheer dress to wear for Easter Sunday and we can all go to church a la 1860's. I originally wanted to make a 1790’s style round gown but I just lack the motivation. I don’t have all the undies I’d need (I have the linen for my shift but haven’t even cut it out yet!) and it would just be too much, all at once. Plus if I make my sheer dress I’ll have lots of use for it after Easter is over with.
So that is the news from me to you this fine and brisk Friday afternoon. How is your day faring in your neck of the woods? (though there is a shocking lack of woods hereabouts, to be sure). Clam chowder and johnny cake for supper with homemade rhubarb pie and (not homemade) :) ice cream for dessert, to be eaten with David after the boy-O’s go to bed, while watching part 2 of Gone With the Wind. Ah. . .isn’t it pleasant to have such things to look forward to? I didn’t like Rhett Butler the first few times I saw GWTW, but he is growing on me. He is a bad man, but at least he doesn’t pretend to be otherwise! I can't stand Ashley. Poor Melanie. :(

Love,
Sarah

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Remaking a Frock - 1860's Black Wool Day Dress

Two posts in one day? Rather excessive, is it not? :) However, I think some cheeriness and pleasantry is in order after the somber post below. The Lord will take care of that situation, and all I can do is content myself with prayer. And now - onto the dress!
This dress was originally made about a year and a half ago from some silver and black striped wool I got from Fabrics.com in their $1.99/yard clearance section. The original dress you can see here: Black Wool Dress

It was made with a common pleated skirt, whipped to a seperate waistband and the bodice had a pointed front, postillion back and was trimmed up with green silk ruching and green silk covered buttons. I liked the dress, but it was a little too "fussy" for me. So when after Malachi was born I realized I really needed to refit or remake the bodice I figured I would redo the trim at that time as well.

I put off redoing the dress for a while since we moved and I had a lot of little boy clothes to make. I didn't know if I would have enough fabric left to make a whole new bodice or if I would have to redo, as best I could, the one I originally made. At last, last week, after going through four muslins to get as best a fit I could, I took the plunge.
I had just enough of the wool left to make a whole new bodice. I did have to piece in a little bit under the armscye on the back bodice piece but it is not very noticable unless you look closely. I used the same sleeves off of the old bodice and kept the sleeve trim intact. Instead of making a pointed front, I made this dress with a plain round waist and attached the skirt directly to the bodice to make a one piece dress with a dog leg opening.
I debated whether I wanted trim on the bodice at all. On the original old bodice I had ruched trimming at the armscyes which I had removed when I took the sleeves off. I decided that would look pretty across the front, and tie in the sleeves to the whole dress a bit better. When I sewed the ruching to the bodice front, there was a section of about 2-3" of untrimmed bodice between the line of sleeve ruching and the line of bodice ruching, right at the back shoulders. To fill in that area, I took the curved "false jacket" trim off the old bodice and used those strips to make some sewn flat bows, which I sewed a matching covered button to. I then tacked these to that untrimmed area to fill it in.
When I originally made the dress I was a little shocked at the vibrancy of the blue-green color. It was a little bright. Mrs. Clark at the Sewing Academy suggested that I put a line of black trim down the center of the ruching to tone it down a bit, so I did that with this trim. I used narrow black velvet ribbon and tacked it on the ruching with a large running stitch, short on the outside and long on the inside. Now that I have worn this dress for a while, I see the fit isn't perfect, but it's a lot better than the dresses I've made the last few years, which were usually made quickly without much time taken for adjusting the fit. For some reason this fabric is shiny and seems to accentuate any flaw since it reflects light. I assure you, in humble cotton, the fit looks much better. :) I think if I fine tune the darts and maybe bone them, it will look passably well.

Not the characteristic "little black dress", but I think this will be a wardrobe staple. I like this better fitting, plainer dress so much better and it will be suitable for almost any occasion. Oh, and the book is Walden by Henry David Thoreau. I am getting through it bit by bit. What a lot of food for thought it is! I am enjoying it very much.

Love,

Sarah

Monday, March 8, 2010

The Elusive Yoked Pleated Tunic?

I've been working myself up into grand irritability over the weekend, looking for that dumb picture I thought I had of a yoked tunic. I never found it, although I did find more documentation for war-era and just-post-war era pleated and yoked military blouses (in fact, in 1872 the military began to issue them as regulation instead of the sack coat). Of course there is the Kentucky Confederate yoked and pleated fatigue blouse in Echoes of Glory as I mentioned in my last post. On the federal side of things, during the War, Ambrose Burnside also had this style copied and given to his men. I also found a lot of reference to late 19th century pleated and yoked tunics for little boys called "Russian Blouses", but nothing applicable to my situation.

However, a fantastic lady on the Sewing Academy posted this picture today. Is this, at last, the long elusive yoked AND pleated tunic? It sure looks like it to me. I also really like this little boys white collar. I had been wondering if white collars were ever worn with tunics, so this helps with that. I have a few white collars I started making for the boys a while ago but never finished, due to uncertainty if they were worn. I have a use for them now! Here is the whole picture: (Shawnra, I hope it's okay if I post this here!) :)
And here is a cropped view of the little boy in question. Really, is there any doubt?!I'm sure happy this morning. :) Giggling. It's awesome.

Love,

Sarah

Friday, March 5, 2010

"A Severe Republican Plainness"

So said Sir Richard Burton, in describing the dress of the Federal army.
It works for tunics too. I like the phrase. It is imaginative. It is unique.

I have been madly sewing on the boys wardrobe this week. As of now, all they need is 2 more undershirts finished and their wool coats made. Then I will be done. Except for trimming, but that is extra and I will do that as I find time in between more necessary projects. And of course, if I have time, new caps for each of them would be nice. But their ones from last year still look well and will work nicely if I don't have time to make new ones right away.
The undershirts are of a soft fine white cotton and are probably the most simple garments I've ever sewn. They are cut all in one piece with the shoulders on the fold and there are but two seams, one on each side, that curves from the short sleeve, to under the arm to down to the hem. The seams are felled for neatness. I did have to hem the neckline opening by hand since I cannot manage such a fine hem using my machine, but, with about a half hour of work put into each one, the first set is done and I hope to finish the rest tonight. Little David loves his "white shirt". He has been wearing it all day!

I finished the boys second set of tunics yesterday. They are made from the same basic pattern as their blue ones but I cut off the pattern at chest level to make a yoke, and the bottom portion is a box pleated rectangle with the pleats tacked down at the waist and the tacking stitches covered by a self fabric belt. They open in the back, and are made of a semi sheer green striped cotton/linen fabric.
Now. It appears that the Yoked Tunic is a thing of mysterious origin. One does not know whether it originated in fact, or in ones head. It seems the general reigning thought from the good folks at the Sewing Academy is that yoked tunics were not worn, owing to the fact that no original yoked tunics have been documented and no original images of boys wearing yoked tunics have yet been found. Last year I saw and saved a picture of a boy wearing what looked to be a type of yoked tunic but of course, now that I actually need it I can no longer find it on the computer!
At any rate, while Yoked Tunics are perhaps a thing of questionable veracity, it IS true that yoked garments, both underwear and outerwear, were worn in the 1860's period. Yoked dresses were worn by women and girls (it appears that both small boys and girls could have worn yoked dresses) and there is a gorgeous example of a yoked jacket/blouse in the Confederate Echoes of Glory book that closely resembles the tunics I've made for my boys. It was said to have been a popular style that was widely copied by officers. And it is true that civilian clothing, especially womens and childrens, was at times made in a military style, or had a "military influence". For example, the ubiquitous Zouave Jacket. So considering that, I think a yoked tunic is plausible. But until I find some real good documentation - don't take my word for it! :)

I want to trim them up to make them a bit dressier (these being intended for Sundays) but until I get time to do so, they severely plain will remain.
I had just enough linen left to make Malachi a little unlined jacket. This green wildly sets off the boys eyes. I think I've seen enough green for a while, though!

Love,

Sarah

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Original 1860's Quilted Silk Bonnet - Yum!

Just popping in for a minute to share this gorgeous silk bonnet I saw while browsing Vintage Textile, as is my customary habit to do once every few months or so. Isn't it beautiful?! It looks fairly easy to copy too. . .
I just love the perky little flat bows at the top! So adorable!
Malachi is stricken with croup at the moment, so I must return to my poor sick little guy, but wanted to share this with other antique-fashion-lovers. :) Love,
Sarah